Cover Plants – Protect plants from all but the hardest freeze (28°F for five hours) by covering them with sheets, towels, blankets, cardboard or a tarp. You can also invert baskets, coolers or any container with a solid bottom over plants. Cover plants before dark to trap warmer air.
So, keep an eye out for your local weather forecast and get your plant coverings ready when temperatures are forecast to dip to 32 degrees F and below.
To know when to cover your plants, you need to know when the plants you have are susceptible to frost damage. Some frost-tender plants need to be covered as soon as the temperature hits 32°F, while others can handle lower temperatures and/or longer freezing periods.
If it stays cold for more than one night, can I keep my plants covered, or should I remove the coverings at some point? A. Our recommendation would be to remove the cold protection covering once temperatures are above 32 degrees.
Most plants prefer a temperature of no less than 60° F, though many can tolerate as low as 40° F. Along with this, while the improper temperature can certainly be an issue, fluctuations in temperature are the true killer. Learn the ideal temperatures for your green friends so they can be healthier and happier.
I did some research and found out that houseplants need to be taken indoors before overnight temperatures dip below 45 degrees. Most tropical plants suffer harm from temperatures below 40 degrees. Well, we have temperatures forecast to dip into the 40s again on Thursday and lower 40s on Friday.
So even though the weather forecaster isn't predicting a freeze, once temperatures start to drop below 40°F you need to be aware. Once temperatures drop below 40°F, you may want to start covering your plants with a frost blanket depending on what you're growing, which we'll get into in just a bit.
The easiest way to harden transplants is to place them outside in a shaded, protected spot on warm days, bringing them in at night. Each day, increase the amount of sunlight the transplants receive. Don't put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days or when temperatures are below 45° F.
A fabric covering is best because it will allow moisture to escape while still protecting your plants from frost. Fabric coverings will prevent the freezing air from coming into direct contact with the moisture on the plant while also capturing the heat that is radiating from the ground.
Yes – if you secure the plant properly. Garbage bags work to cover plants and protect from frost, but they must not be allowed to touch the plant's surface. Use stakes and supports to create a tent-like structure over the plant, which will retain warm air. Make sure the trash bag goes all the way to the ground.
Some Hardy Perennials Need Winter Protection in the North and Midwest, and Tender Perennials Require Special Protection Methods. Many perennials hardy for your zone make it through winter just fine with no special attention.
One obvious sign of dead floras is mushy and fragile stems plus roots. Once a plant has reached this stage, no home remedies will save it.
Thoroughly Water plants if it's not going to rain before the freezing temperatures arrive. It may sound illogical. However, a moist ground stays warmer than dry soil. Watering the night before the freeze comes will insulate the root structure of the grass and plants and decreases the potential for cold injury.
From that experience, I've found the best frost protection for your outdoor plants is either free or cheap. Cardboard boxes and brown grocery sacks make perfect frost cover and at the end of the season can be recycled. I keep various boxes on the patio and when frost is forecast simply put one over the plant.
As gardeners, our frost dates are based on 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) to avoid the risk of any plant death. However, know that even if air temperatures are as high as 38°F, frosts may occur on the ground and on plants. It's better to protect plants just in case!
Time It Right
While it might be tempting to ship indoor plants outside at the first sign of spring, it's best to wait until nighttime temperatures stay at or above 60°F, and after any threat of frost has passed. If you're planning ahead, use the average last frost date for your area as your guide.
Plants to move inside: Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and others that will not survive frost. Plants to cover: Potatoes, radishes, spinach, leaf lettuce, beets, mustard. Plants that do not need to be covered: Onions, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, turnips, kale.
A covered porch usually provides protection from light frost, but the garage or sun room is better for freezing temperatures. A couple days in darkness won't hurt the plant. Or move them out during the day and back in at night, if cold temperatures persist.
For many plants, temperatures below 50°F can cause problems. Adjust thermostats to cater to your comfort, but remember your plants need some consideration. Avoid placing plants near cold drafts or heat sources. Keep plants several inches away from exterior windows.
Generally speaking, if your plant is hardy to two zones colder than the area that you are in, it will be a good candidate for being able to survive the winter in a container in your area. There are some exceptions to that rule, and certain plants are better able to survive in containers through the winter than others.
The newly emerged growth of most perennials can tolerate temperatures in the low 30s and upper 20s Fahrenheit. Freeze damage may occur if temperatures drop into the lower 20s or teens. Most well-established perennials that have been damaged by freezing temperatures should survive.
Hardy cool-season crops (cabbage, broccoli, onions, radish, spinach, turnips, peas, and radish) grow in 40 degree daytime temperatures and can handle some frosty nights without protection.
Temperatures below 32 degrees can freeze the leaf tissue of cold-wimpy plants and turn them to mush after just a few hours. Some of the most tender annuals and veggies might not die but suffer cold-induced setbacks even when overnight lows dip below 40.