On walls that are already painted with a glossy finish, or when using latex paint on top of an oil-based finish, a new coat of paint applied directly on top might have trouble adhering without a coat of primer for it to hold onto.
Short answer, yes, if you want the best finish, we always recommend priming, especially if you're painting over a darker color than what you're going to paint on, or if there are any surface imperfections.
Absolutely not. Unless your walls are bare drywall and have never been painted. You see, the primer's main job is to provide adhesion. So if your walls are already painted, they just need to be clean, dry, and dull. And then any additional topcoat you're putting on will adhere.
Primer - the first step toward a lasting finish. To get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, be sure to properly apply primer to the surfaces you plan to paint.
Priming before painting over old paint on a car is generally recommended, especially under certain conditions. Whether you need to apply primer depends on the condition of the existing paint and the type of paint job you're aiming for.
Primer prepares the car's surface for paint. It contains liquified resins that allow the paint to adhere. Without it, the paint will fade, crack, and deteriorate quickly. A similar product is the primer surfacer, which combines the functions of primer and sanding.
Since single-stage urethanes are basically clear coat with color pigment added, these paints can be sprayed as is, or clear coat can be used afterwards for additional shine and protection. When repainting a vehicle, you will either strip the vehicle to bare metal or paint over an existing finish.
Above all else, self-priming paint is designed to eliminate the need for primer. It is typically thicker than average paint, with a higher concentration of solids to help cover blemishes, leave a more robust finish and ultimately make the process quicker and easier.
While primer is an important step, it's not always necessary. You don't need to use a primer if your paint project has all of these conditions: You're painting drywall surfaces that are smooth, clean, and don't need repair. Surfaces were previously painted with latex in a flat or eggshell finish.
This is especially important when you are changing the paint from a dark colour to a light colour. Primer for painting also provides a new and clean base for dirty walls that are hard to clean. Using a primer is especially important if the walls are going to be exposed to sunlight, rain and pollutants.
Fresh drywall soaks up paint like a sponge, and the mudded joints take paint differently than the bare drywall between the joints. Translation: Without a coat of primer, you're looking at a splotchy paint job. Applying primer prior to painting drywall will give your finished wall an even, clean look.
Paint and primer combination products do work in certain situations, but every paint job is different. Paint and primer have two different, distinct functions and many times work best as two separate products. Paint provides color, hiding, sheen, scrub resistance and protection against the elements.
What might take three or four coats of paint can be accomplished with one coat of primer and maybe two coats of paint. Don't even think about painting wood paneling without a few coats of stain-blocking primer. Without a good primer, it could take upward of six coats of paint to cover the wood grain.
You probably don't need a primer. If the current wall is smooth, clean and covered with the same type of paint (both are oil-based for example), you can head straight for the paint. You need to fill holes, spackle and sand*, maybe even cut a new piece of drywall in to the existing wall.
Do Professional Painters Wash Walls Before Painting? In most cases, professional painters don't wash walls with a detergent solution to avoid damaging the drywall or trim. Instead, most professional painters lightly sand or “scuff” the walls with a pole sander using fine-grit sandpaper.
If you have various stains, shellac Bonding primer is the ideal choice. It can be used to cover rough surfaces and old varnish as well as metal and ceramic.
In order to save time and money, professional painters recommend using a good primer.
SuperPaint Interior Latex can be used directly over existing coatings, or bare drywall, plaster (cured with a pH of less than 9), masonry (cured with a pH of less than 9) and non-bleeding wood. If the wood has bleeding (such as tannin or knot-holes), prime with Multi-Purpose Primer. Other primers may be appropriate.
While primers are generally less expensive than paint, avoid substituting a prime coat for a full coat of paint. Given this fact, why not just buy the cheaper primer and use it as one of your coats of paint? Whether you tint the primer color or not, it does not replace an extra coat of paint.
Sherwin-Williams makes it easy to get the best paint primer for any surface you want to paint.
Brand new surfaces should always be coated with primer before being painted. This is because most bare surfaces feature pores and/or numerous imperfections that will result in uneven paint coverage and poor adhesion. By priming the surface ahead of time, the paint will have a smooth, receptive plane on which to rest.
No, you cannot convert flat white paint into a primer or finishing top coat. You will need to purchase a primer and finishing paint. The top coat will provide a smooth finish to your walls. Though latex paint can be used as a primer.
For example, if the paint is in good condition, you should be able to paint over it using a paint sprayer. First, apply primer or undercoat, let it dry, and then sand it in preparation for the base coat. Once the base coat has dried for about a half-hour, apply a second coat of paint.
Yes, you can spray paint over old paint on a car, but there are important steps and considerations to ensure a good finish.
Modern car paints are nearly always an acrylic polyurethane "enamel" with a pigmented basecoat and a clear topcoat. It may be described as "acrylic", "acrylic enamel", "urethane", etc. and the clearcoat in particular may be described as a lacquer.