Without sand, the pavers are likely to shift and sink over time, resulting in an uneven and messy surface. The sand keeps the pavers in place, preventing unnecessary replacements and repairs, as well as keeping your patio free from tripping hazards.
Whilst it is technically possible to lay pavers on bare, unprepared ground, this practice is not recommended as the ground will shift over time, causing the pavers to develop a sunken look, or even crack.
If you want your pavers to last, then you need to ensure that they have a strong foundation. You might have seen cracked or uneven pavers. They are a result of a poorly installed paver base. So in short, installing a paver base is crucial to get an even, flat surface that is easy to walk on and will last for years.
Dry laying allows porcelain pavers to be laid directly on grass and sand, but also on gravel, thanks to their reduced thickness of 20 millimeters that avoids the use of adhesives.
Always lay a proper sand foundation over the concrete before adding pavers.
One of the most important things needed for the proper installation of pavers is sand. It is necessary to prevent the joints of the pavers from moving. Just like all other construction installations, you also need a base for pavers if you want them to not move from their place.
Don't do it! Dirt is not a suitable paver base because it doesn't drain well and can shift, sink, and swell easily depending on weather conditions. Additionally, if your soil isn't level, you'll have uneven pavers that will be difficult—if not impossible—to fix.
After you lay gravel, you'll need to spread a smooth layer of concrete sand for your pavers to settle in and stay. If you try to replace either of these aggregates with dirt, it won't be long before you have to tear it all up and start from scratch.
A GRAVEL BASE LAYER BEFORE SAND IS A MUST! Using sand alone to set pavers is not enough. The best and recommended paver base is 3/8-inch crushed gravel. The gravel provides a flexible base that absorbs ground tension to prevent frost heaves.
The traditional base for a paver patio is 4–6” of compacted gravel above your dirt. If you're installing a driveway or road intended for vehicular traffic, you'll need to double the thickness of your gravel layer.
Using the correct base material under your pavers is of high importance for several reasons. It provides a stable and flat foundation to lay the pavers on, this will ensure they last and remain secure without shifting.
Prevent the pavers from shifting around by adding a solid edge to your patio. You can use a cement lip, plastic or metal edging. When you're finished, spread fine sand over the patio and sweep it into the cracks to help hold the bricks in place. You might consider using polymeric sand for increased longevity.
If you are laying pea gravel and pavers, you will want to dig 2-3 inches deep. I chose to dig about 2 inches below the surface. Keep a tape measure with you through this process and make sure to check all sides of your area to ensure you're depth is consistent.
Porcelain pavers can be laid directly over existing grass or lawn as 'stepping stones' or to create a pathway, but for better stability of the pavers, the grass beneath the pavers should first be removed, together with a shallow layer of the topsoil.
Crushed stone makes a solid paver base because it allows water drainage and is easy to work with. Like sand, crushed stone comes in several varieties. The best aggregate for paver bases is a quarry processed dense grade aggregate. Quarry processing creates a combination of 3/4-inch crushed stone and stone dust.
Sand Bedding
Before laying the pavers, a layer of bedding sand is placed over the compacted base material. This layer provides a bed into which the pavers are set.
In case of bad weather, you will again face two options: If there is a huge downpour, it's best to postpone the process. Sand will surely get wet and wash out of the joints, so it is best to reschedule and start from the beginning. If there is light rain, you'll most likely have nothing to worry about.
Sand just locks and drains... 'fine' gravel will do the same and it's probably better. The particles are a tad larger than sand and allow water to drain faster before it gets a chance to surface freeze. If you have a drainage problem or slow absorption, the key would be that first layer of larger stone.
Paver sand holds the pavers in place and allows you to adjust them. The final paver sand depth needs to be 1 inch and you need to account for sand filtering into the paver base and into the joints between the pavers. Make your calculations using a sand depth of 2 inches or 0.1667 feet.
Gravel by its very nature will displace and move under foot. Therefore you only want to spread materials under gravel which are stable. This is why compacted mot type one is the best material for under a gravel patio. Sand will easily rutt and displace making your gravel surface unstable.
In general, the excavation depth should be at least 8 inches for a slope of up to 3%, and up to 12 inches for steeper slopes. Use a vibratory plate compactor to compact the base and create a solid foundation. Make sure you create a slope in the base material that matches the slope of the installation area.
Smother the Grass
This will take some time because you won't be digging. Cut thick, black plastic, like a heavy-duty pond liner, about 6 inches bigger than your pavers, and lay each piece over the area where each paver will sit. Weight the plastic down with rocks and leave it in place for at least four weeks.
Polymeric sand is a material used to fill paver joints, the empty spaces found between each paver, tile or natural stone. It is sometimes called jointing sand, paver sand or hardscape sand. Jointing sand is made up of fine grains, to which manufacturers add a mixture of specific additive particles.