Eventually, spring will come around. Shorter nights mean more sunlight, which means encouragement for perennials to grow once again. But they won't necessarily shoot up at the first sight of spring – depending on your climate, it can take weeks to for your garden to emerge from dormancy.
However, if the seed does not detect optimal conditions for growth, it will remain in dormancy until you provide it with just enough soil, oxygen, water and sunlight. These four factors are key to the growth and development of the plant at all stages of growth and even after.
Dormant plants need less frequent watering than those in active growth. (If planting in a low desert region, a watering once every 2 weeks may be needed if day temperatures are hot.) Check under the mulch. If the soil feels dry, then water lightly.
The plants are dormant only because of cold or cool weather. Warmer temperatures into the mid-40s will cause them to begin growth. Once the plants start to grow, they lose the ability to readjust to colder temperatures.
Find a Good Overwintering Place
In another house I used a minimally heated outbuilding, and now I have a basement. Light is not a factor for dormant plants, though weak winter light won't hurt them.
Throughout the winter your plant is still going to need some water. If the soil gets completely dry, the plant can die of desiccation. While regular watering isn't necessary, monitor the moisture level and water if the soil is dry.
Dormant and resting plants will droop, their leaves will sometimes turn yellow and drop, and they won't put on any new growth.
As their growth rate slows down, Mast notes that most plants actually need less water in the winter, since overwatering can lead to root rot. But that doesn't mean you should ignore your plants, either. "I always suggest pushing your finger about two inches down into the soil and only water if it feels dry," she says.
Heat. The dormancy of seeds with hard seed coats sometimes can be broken by heat. An important natural agent for breaking dormancy of seeds of some species with hard seed coats is heat from fire or insolation.
According to Costa Farms horticulturist, Justin Hancock, there are some misperceptions about winter dormancy and houseplants. “Houseplants don't actually go dormant like a lot of people think,” he says. They do, however, react to the climatic changes in your home. Your home is dryer in the winter.
Applying fertilizer in the wrong season can cause increased tender new growth that can be damaged, especially if applied in cold weather in late fall or in winter. So it is best to stop fertilizing during dormant seasons. Additionally, in zones that can be in danger of a late freeze, it's best to wait until mid-spring.
The key is to be patient. Keep tending to your plant for a few weeks and then reevaluate. “Once you've taken steps to revive a dying plant, it can take up to a month before you start to see an improvement or new growth, so don't give up on it too soon,” says Valentino.
While your tree is dormant above ground, the roots are hard at work, preparing for the springtime. While its dormant, roots still seek out and soak up water and tend to extend further, creating a better, stronger base for your future mature tree. Keeping your plant watered is vital to keeping it alive during this time.
Soaking seeds in warm water for up to 24 hours is one way to break dormancy and get seeds to germinate faster. Seeds with thinner seed coats should be soaked for 12 hours or less. moisten. Fill a container to the top with moist soil.
A plant also needs to be repotted if roots are growing out of the drainage hole, or if the plant requires frequent watering or wilts shortly after watering. Repot only as needed during spring and summer while the plant is actively growing. Do not repot ailing or dormant plants or those beginning to flower.
Scarification, hot water, dry heat, fire, acid and other chemicals, mulch, and light are the methods used for breaking seed coat dormancy [3]. Physiological conditions causing internal dormancy arise from the presence of germination inhibitors inside the seed.
There are two different categories of seed dormancy: exogenous and endogenous (Scarification). Exogenous dormancy is caused by conditions outside of the seed's embryo. An example of exogenous dormancy is when the seed coat is too durable for moisture to infiltrate, effectively preventing germination.
The “breaking” of dormancy. The seeds of many species do not germinate immediately after exposure to conditions generally favourable for plant growth but require a “breaking” of dormancy, which may be associated with change in the seed coats or with the state of the embryo itself.
The typical traits going into dormancy include wilting, dropping leaves, and even looking utterly dead for some plants. For others, it may just mean not putting out any new growth over the winter.
Avoid watering when temperatures are below 40°F or when sustained freezing temperatures are expected within 24 hours as this water will freeze and not be available to the plants.
Because your plants are in “hibernation mode,” they'll need less water than usual. However, this can be a bit complicated because the drier air from our furnaces can cause the soil and leaves to dry out faster. Yet other sources of heat such as baseboards and space heaters may not dry out the air at all.
Dormant plants are less likely to suffer from dehydration. Without mature leaves and blooms to support, they can focus their energy below the soil, sending out healthy roots to find water and nutrients.