The advantage of fixing tiles from the corner is that it will be easier to cut the tiles to fit them at the edges. Starting at the corner will also allow you to lay tiles according to your desired pattern. If you begin laying tiles from the center, it will be harder to get the pattern moving evenly at the edges.
Make a mark directly in the middle of the wall above the countertop. This is where you will center the first tile to start the backsplash project. If the countertop is tiled, locate the tile that is in the middle of the counter and use that as your starting point.
It all starts with the alignment of your upper and lower cabinets. Hopefully they are lined up perfectly, as they are above, where the splash can run from the top edge of the countertop to the underside edge of the upper cabinet.
Leave the Edge Alone
Complete the edge by applying a piece of painter's tape to the wall next to the tiles. Squeeze a thin line of caulk down the outside edge of the tiles where they meet the wall. This blends the tiles into the wall, giving it a clean, finished look.
The best rule for kitchen backsplash placement is to look for a natural stopping point. This could be a wall, a window, a cabinet edge, or anything else in between. You can use tile edging trim or bullnose tile to create a distinct edge for the backsplash.
Backsplash height should be all the way from the Countertop to the bottom of upper cabinets. I strongly suggest designing it like this, otherwise, it will look outdated like on the bottom image. Also, it protects water spillage much better if it is made all the way up to upper cabinets.
Preparing your kitchen for tiling
Next, place a tile against the lowest point of the base you're working to and draw a level line. Fix a baton along this line to hold your first row of tiles, and draw a vertical line at one end of the wall to allow you to check that your tiles are in line as you tile up the wall.
You need a backsplash behind the stove to protect from grease and cooking splatter that could damage the surface behind the stove. The backsplash should be made of durable, nonabsorbent, and easy to clean material that will not discolor easily.
Typically the tile backsplash stretches from the countertop to directly beneath the cabinets, although some may be only 4 inches in height and some may sit on top of a 4-inch granite backsplash. When installing a tile backsplash above a granite counter, it's important to make sure the two areas meet properly.
Getting Started
It's always advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it's easier to make sure your pattern is symmetrical. It also means any half-tiles you may need can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size.
Caulk all inside corners
As you learn how to grout tile, don't grout inside corners. Inside corners that are grouted will always crack over time. Choose a matching color caulk designed to coordinate with the grout you've used. It's sold in matching colors near the grout.
Start by laying a row of tiles along each of the four lines, all the way to the walls, creating a cross of tiles in the center of the room. If necessary, use plastic spacers to keep the grout joints even. At the ends of the walls you will likely be faced with a space that's too small for the width of a last tile.
A standard backsplash is typically 4 inches high from the countertop. A full backsplash comes as high as you need, most homeowners have it all the way up to the height of the kitchen cabinets.
Space For Your Kitchen Backsplash
Measurements for a typical backsplash are--16 to 18 inches--between the countertop and kitchen cabinets.
When installing tile, leave a 1/8 inch (3 mm) gap between tile and cabinets. Fill the gap between the tile and cabinet with color-matched caulk. Then, smooth it with this caulking tool.
Use a Caulked Edge (No Transition)
Some tile types don't offer a bullnose because a bullnose is not necessary. Glass tiles, tumbled stone varieties, and porcelain tiles have naturally finished edge. They do not need a separate edge piece to create a polished look. Simply install up to the edge and caulk.
The only time tile trim may not be needed is when the tile meets flush against other surfaces like wall corners or floor edges. Continuous tile designs can also be used instead of installing tile trim (but the tile edges should be glazed to remove rough, sharp edges).
If you're in a kitchen, and you're doing the countertop-to-upper-cabinet-18”-high-backsplash, it's best not to wrap that around to the side wall if you don't need to. As I always say... Transitioning materials on an inside corner is always best.
Common practice is 2-3mm for wall tiles and 3-5mm for floor tiles. The key difference in tile type, in relation to grout lines, is whether you tile is rectified or not.
The Tile Council of North America recommends at least a quarter-inch gap between the tile floor and the walls. Never fill this gap with grout, because tile grout is not flexible. Instead, fill it with an elastic material capable of sustaining the movement of the floor and the movement of the wall.
Most subway tile has grooves on the sides so you don't need to use spacers at all because it's an automatic 1/16″ grout line.