The Short Answer Is: Warning signs of a bad furnace ignitor include the furnace not starting or
Unplug the ignitor, and pull it out of your furnace. Leave it out for about five minutes, and test it using a multimeter to make sure it has continuity. After five minutes, plug the ignitor back in and turn the power to the furnace back on. If you still have an issue, call in a furnace repair technician.
The igniter glows red and then lights the burners in the gas furnace. Over time, the igniter is continually getting red hot and then cooling, creating stress on the element. Because of this, igniters have a 3-5 year life expectancy. They will eventually crack and need to be replaced.
Defective Igniter or Pilot Light
If it clicks but your furnace won't ignite after the combustion cycle, the electronic ignition systems probably need to be replaced. In cases where the furnace ignition starts normally but only stays on for a few minutes and then goes out, a new pilot light likely needs to be installed.
You can reset the ignition on your furnace simply. To do this you must cut the power to the furnace first by turning off the circuit that powers it. Once the power is off you can remove the burner door to reveal the ignitor. Turn this to “off” and leave it off for at least 5 minutes.
Most likely, your furnace is making a clicking noise and not providing heat because your furnace's spark igniter is trying to ignite your pilot light or burners but is failing to do so. In other words, there's an ignition system malfunction that needs to be fixed. Otherwise, your furnace won't start.
A furnace ignitor replacement costs $100 to $250 on average. Most universal hot-surface ignitor prices are $15 to $35 for the part alone. Gas furnace ignitor prices are $20 to $100 for parts from the original manufacturer (OEM). The labor cost to replace a heater ignitor is $80 to $200.
Can you DIY a furnace ignitor replacement? In short, yes, you can DIY a hot-surface ignitor replacement. It shouldn't be too difficult if you have experience fixing things around the house. However, if you typically feel clueless about troubleshooting household appliances, this may not be the right job for you.
Remove the ignitor carefully by holding only the base. Avoid touching the ignitor surface with bare hands. Use compressed air to remove carbon deposits. Gently wipe the surface with a soft cloth or scuff pad until shiny.
If there is a strong draft in your basement or attic, or if you are experiencing high winds, the pilot light may not light. In addition, if your furnace has a draft motor or blower that is malfunctioning or dead, the pilot won't light. The purpose of the draft motor is to pull air into and out of your chimney or vent.
For instance, the flame sensor is on the left side, while the ignitor is located on the right side of the burners. When the burners produce a flame, the rod-shaped protrusion detects it and sends an electrical signal to the furnace's control board, signifying that everything is functioning correctly.
The confusion regarding their usage arises from regional spelling preferences and variations. In contemporary usage, “igniter” is generally the preferred and more widely accepted term, particularly in American English. Conversely, “ignitor” may still be found in older literature or specific regional contexts.
The Short Answer Is: Warning signs of a bad furnace ignitor include the furnace not starting or heating, a noticeable clicking sound without ignition, or frequent short cycling where the furnace turns on and off rapidly. Additionally, if the ignitor appears cracked or discolored, it may need replacement.
A multimeter can be used to help determine if a glow-bar style furnace igniter has sufficient electrical continuity – a continuous electrical path present in the part – for the igniter to function properly.
Reset The Furnace Ignitor
Find the burner door on the furnace and look behind it to find the ignitor. Turn it to “OFF” and wait for five minutes. After you wait, turn it back on and return the door to the burner. It is important to make sure the switch on the door is properly engaged.
Several factors can lead to ignitor troubleshooting and potential replacement. Understanding these causes can help you prevent future issues and extend the life of your ignitor. Common causes of ignitor failure include: Age and wear: Ignitors typically last three to five years before needing replacement.
Take an old part, as well as its mounting holes and electrical connector, with you. This part should cost between $25 and $50, which is still much less than a maintenance contract. We can agree that a furnace ignitor replacement is a tricky task and can take up an entire day if you are a novice.
A defective gas valve can also lead to gas supply problems. If there is no gas flow when you start your furnace, the igniter will make a clicking noise until you shut off your heat. If your furnace refuses to start, be sure to listen for the flow of gas. If you don't hear anything, try starting your water heater.
First, confirm the switch is in the "on" position, and if it is, see if your furnace starts up. If the switch is flipped down in the "Off" position, then your furnace will not turn on. If your heating system still does not start up, it might be due to a blown furnace fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
Gently rub the metal surface of the ignitor (the element for hot surface ignitors or wires for direct spark ignitors) with a scuff pad on all sides until it's shiny everywhere. Vacuum off all dust. Replace the ignitor, reconnect the wires and replace the panel.
There are several reasons why your furnace may not turn on. The most common include a broken thermostat, gas line issues, clogged air filters, blocked ductwork, a tripped circuit breaker, and issues with the furnace itself.