Handle the roots gingerly and place into hole about 1" above the established root line so that more of the plant is underground than when in pots. Peppers will grow additional roots from the stem that is now underground. This will "anchor" the plant better and it will grow stockier.
Transplanting Your Peppers
Bury them a bit deeper than the root ball to encourage additional root growth that will make them sturdier. Plastic mulch and row cover can be used to increase warmth and hence, earliness and yield.
Just like their siblings the tomatoes, peppers can grow roots along submerged parts of the stem, so plant them deeper in the soil than they were in their containers. You can bury the stem up to their cotyledons, or ``seed leaves'' (those first two leaflike things that sprout out of the seed).
Planting and Spacing:
Plant 4-6 pepper seeds ½ inch deep and 18 inches apart in the row. After the seedlings have two leaves, thin to a single plant Transplants should be planted 18 inches apart in row, with rows 18-24 inches apart.
Quick Guide to Growing Peppers
They grow well in raised beds, containers, and in-ground gardens. Plant them 18 to 24 inches apart in a sunny, well-drained spot. Pepper plants need at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Mix compost or other organic matter into the soil when planting.
Before planting, fill the holes with water and let it soak in. Into each planting hole, put two or three wooden matchsticks (for sulfur) and 1 teaspoon of low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (too much nitrogen will reduce fruit set).
When plants are about two feet tall, prune out the foliage from the bottom 12" of larger pepper varieties like bell, cubanelle, and poblano peppers. For smaller varieties such as jalapeno, shishito, and Thai peppers, remove foliage from the lower 6-8" of stems.
Allow 18 inches for each pepper in a raised be and one pepper per container. Banana and bullhorn peppers, like Carmen, can be planted 18 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart. Chile peppers with smaller fruits, including serrano, habanero and caribbean should be planted 30 inches apart with 36 inches between rows.
Pepper Plant Transplant Shock
Peppers can be shocked if you don't acclimate them to the outdoors first before transplanting outside after starting them indoors. We like to harden off seedlings over a series of days first to get them used to the strong sunlight and breezes.
Transplant outdoors after nighttime low temperatures are above 50°F. Dry soil, temperatures above 90°F, or night temperatures below 60°F or above 70°F, can weaken plant growth. Transplant in late afternoon or on a cloudy, calm day. Pepper flavor is best when the season has been warm and sunny.
Plant Peppers and Tomatoes Deep for Higher Yields and Stronger Plants. Plant deep. That is the best piece of advice I could give anyone who wants to grow healthier and more productive peppers and tomatoes. With tomatoes this is common knowledge among gardeners, and you won't cause much of a stir by doing it.
Peppers will grow additional roots from the stem that is now underground. This will "anchor" the plant better and it will grow stockier. Immediately water the plants well at the soil level.
Water your plants thoroughly until water begins to drain from the bottom, then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out before the next watering. Adapt your watering schedule to accommodate the climate in your area. In hot and dry conditions, you may need to water every two to three days.
Pepper plants usually require a little extra care than many other types of plants when transplanting them to the garden. They are more sensitive to the transplanting shock. Hardening the plant enables it to withstand the planting shock.
Pepper plants tend to do best when grown in close proximity to each other, but not quite touching.
On 30” beds, 2 rows of Peppers can be planted diagonally, at 18” apart; expect yields of 10-20# per plant over the harvest season. This translates to about 3 peppers per week. On 4' beds, 2 rows of Peppers can be planted parallel, at 18” apart; expect yields of 10-20# per plant over the harvest season.
Reason 1: Overcrowding plants reduces plant health
If peppers are planted too close, they'll grow into their neighbors. This reduces air circulation around the plants and the foliage won't dry off as quickly after watering or rain. Wet foliage is an invitation to disease.
Pepper varieties with smaller fruit, such as habaneros and jalapenos, can grow bushier and produce more branches and peppers if you “top” them after transplanting. To do this, pinch or snip away the top section of the plant, making your cut just above the second or third set of plant leaves above the base of the plant.
We don't find that topping or pruning peppers necessarily increases your yield, but pinching blossoms will definitely help increase the production of pods on the plants. A couple other tips for maximum pepper harvests from your pepper plants: Make sure they have lots of space and full sun.
Too hot or too cold, and your plant will throw a fit, with leaves drooping in protest. When it comes to light, pepper plants love a good sunbath.
Bell Peppers: Vulnerable to damping-off disease, it is advisable to avoid using coffee grounds to deter fungal growth. Instead, consider using well-draining soil and proper spacing for optimal plant health.
Peppers & Epsom Salt
By adding one or two tablespoons to the area before planting for seeds, starter plants and full-grown plants, and then adding it twice a week based on the height of the plant (see above), you can give your pepper plants a much-needed magnesium boost.