Consider first what thickness of underlay you need for the floor type you choose – for example, you can have very thick underlays underneath carpet flooring, but you don't want thick underlay for use underneath laminate flooring, as it can cause your laminate flooring to lift or feel spongey.
When installing hardwood or engineered wood flooring, the best underlay options are cork and foam. However, foam does have more give than cork so, while it is the more popular option, we recommend cork. Cork has less give, making it less likely to flex underneath your planks.
No subfloor is perfectly level, but any signs of unevenness and high or low spots must be remedied. Please follow these requirements: Subfloor unevenness cannot be greater than 3/16 of an inch over a 10-foot span or 1/8 inch over a 6-foot span. Subfloors must not slope more than ½ inch per 6 feet (25 mm per 1.8 m)
The high cost of synthetic underlayment is due to its superior material strength and long lifespan compared to felt or asphalt paper underlayment. While the initial investment may be higher, synthetic underlayment can save you money in the long run by lasting longer and requiring fewer repairs or replacements.
It may seem wasteful to spend hard-earned cash on something that won't even be seen. But no matter how small your budget, don't be tempted to pass on the underlay. Yes, it's a hidden layer, but it offers many useful benefits. Without it, you will notice a big difference in the final look and feel of your carpet.
When moisture penetrates your flooring, it can cause mold, mildew, and the potential for water damage. A moisture barrier helps control the water vapor's movement to help protect your floors. Therefore, if you're installing floors in an area that sees moisture, even a little, a vapor barrier is needed.
Very often, particularly in a below-grade installation on a concrete basement floor, a vapor barrier is recommended in addition to the underlayment. That vapor barrier would go between the subfloor and the underlayment.
Choosing a thick (10mm+) underlay for your stairs is not a good idea as it can pose a trip hazard. Moreover, thicker carpet underlays tend to compress slightly with heavy use, which can lead to irregular wear and unsightly lumps, particularly in frequently trodden areas.
FibreBoard underlay is designed to eliminate uneven floors, thanks to it's lightweight yet strong construction. Offering stable support which helps to guard against wear and helps to reduce high impact damage, while smoothing out the most uneven areas.
It comes in two different weights: 15- and 30-pound, with 30-pound being the more durable, heavy option. Synthetic roofing underlayment is typically made from durable polymers that are created to be water-resistant and easy to work with. Many roofing contractors prefer to use synthetic roofing underlayment over felt.
Generally, there are five thicknesses in the following thickness categories: 1/4, 11/32, 15/32, 19/32 and 23/32. The thinner panels are often used for an underlayment under resilient flooring products in conjunction with a thicker subfloor, while thicker panels are used for hardwood and tile flooring.
PU foam underlay, now used largely as the industry standard in UK homes, offers much greater heat and sound insulation than its rubber alternatives, thanks to its dense, soft nature. It's this same softness that makes it so comfortable underfoot too.
9-10mm carpet underlays are usually good all-rounders that can be installed in all areas of the home, including stairs and hallways. This thickness is popular with homeowners who want to use the same underlay across their entire home/project, saving the hassle of ordering multiple products and minimising wastage.
Our underlay rolls cover 15.07 square metres; simply multiply your length by your width (to get the total square meters), and divide it by 15.07 and you will know how many rolls of underlay you will need.
There is no fastening the underlayment to the subfloor. However, during installation some installers like to fasten underlayment to the subfloor to prevent the underlayment from moving. If your choose this route, staples are a good choice to fasten the underlayment.
Density plays a role in both comfort and durability. Higher-density underlay tends to be more resilient and durable, as it can better withstand the pressure and weight placed on the flooring surface. It offers improved support and helps prevent premature wear and tear of the floor covering.
If you've purchased a vinyl floor then you do not need to also buy underlay. This is one of the most common questions which we face. The short answer is no. No underlay is required for a vinyl floor is you are installing your new floor on a smooth surface.
Yes. Hardwood flooring is quite sensitive to moisture and it's always worth adding a moisture barrier during installation. It is a necessity with concrete subfloors and damp areas, but water-resistive underlayments should be considered with other subfloors as well.
Installing Plywood Underlayment
While underlayment traditionally was glued down to wood subflooring, most manufacturers today recommend installing it without glue, which greatly simplifies the installation. Thorough fastening of the underlayment panels is key to a successful installation.
If there is no shiny surface, one side usually features a thin backing material secured by what looks like mesh. This should face up into the room, in contact with the carpet. The rubber or foam side should face down towards the subfloor.
If your planks already have a pad-attached underlayment, you most likely won't need an underlayment. However, if your flooring manufacturers installation instructions allow for an extra underlayment, adding an extra underlayment will provide improved sound reduction, insulation, and moisture protection.
Choosing between felt or foam-backed vinyl flooring ultimately comes down to personal preferences, alongside the specific needs of the space where it will be installed. Felt-backed vinyl offers an enhanced underfoot experience that's warm, comfortable, and forgiving of minor subfloor irregularities.
Both are designed to keep moisture out of your home and can be made from various materials. But there are a few key differences, the most apparent being that moisture barriers are better at keeping out liquids, and vapor barriers are better at keeping out water in its gaseous state.