Use faced insulation for areas requiring moisture and vapor control, like exterior walls, basements, and unvented attics. The attached paper barrier faces the heated/conditioned living space. Use unfaced insulation for interior walls (soundproofing), between floors, and when topping up existing insulation to prevent moisture traps.
Use faced insulation for exterior walls, attics, and basements where moisture control is vital. The facing (paper or foil) acts as a vapor barrier.
Use faced insulation in exterior walls where you need moisture control. The facing should always face the warm side of the wall (toward the living space in cold climates). This prevents warm, moist air from penetrating into the wall cavity where it could condense and cause problems.
Yes, you can mix faced and unfaced insulation, but only one vapor barrier should be used. Place the faced layer toward the heated side of the space. Never stack two faced layers, as trapped moisture can lead to mold or damage.
The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The recommended level for most attics is to insulate to R-38 or about 10 to 14 inches, depending on insulation type.
Mice are curious and always searching for safe, snug, and warm nesting sites. Attics filled with blown-in insulation provide an excellent option–from the mice's point of view. As long as there is a ready food source. Mice are omnivorous and will eat and chew on almost anything including wood and electrical wires.
Yes, R-30 and R-38 make a measurable difference in thermal resistance, but the impact on your comfort and energy bills depends on your climate.
In most cases, you do not need to remove old insulation before adding new insulation. Laying new batting or blown-in insulation directly over existing material is often the most cost-effective way to boost your attic's energy efficiency, provided the old insulation is in good condition.
Insulating a 2,000 sq. ft. attic costs between $2,000 and $9,000, with most homeowners paying around $3,600 to $5,800 for professional installation. The wide price range depends on the type of insulation, labor rates, and whether old insulation requires removal.
Foam insulation is a common target because it's easy for them to chew through. The material offers little resistance, allowing mice to create tunnels or nests within the insulation. But mice aren't just interested in chewing for the sake of it—they're also drawn to the warmth and shelter insulation provides.
No. Kraft-faced insulation / fiberglass batts, you have a built in vapor barrier.
Continuous insulation on the exterior side of wall framing is increasingly required in colder climate zones. This addresses thermal bridging through wood or steel studs, which can reduce the effective R-value of a wall assembly by 20% or more.
What time of year is Insulation cheapest?
“Faced insulation is typically used in exterior walls and ceilings where moisture control is a concern, while unfaced insulation is suitable for interior walls and areas where moisture is not a significant issue.
The healthiest, non-toxic insulation for your home is natural sheep's wool or hemp insulation. These materials contain no chemical binders or formaldehyde, actively regulate indoor humidity to prevent mold, and do not off-gas.
Yes, you can install unfaced insulation over existing faced insulation. In fact, it is the standard and recommended method for adding a second layer of insulation.
Fall is an ideal time for insulation.
Adding insulation before winter can help reduce heating bills significantly. Spring is another excellent option for installation. It provides an opportunity to prepare your home for summer's heat. Insulating in spring can keep your home cooler and reduce air conditioning costs.
For most attics, blown insulation is better than rolled insulation. Blown-in is ideal for older homes or attics with irregular framing, as the machine-blown material conforms tightly around pipes, wires, and joists. Rolled insulation is better for brand-new, empty attics with no obstructions.
Covers All Major Insulation Types – Whether you're adding insulation to your attic, walls, basement, or crawl space, you can qualify as long as the materials meet efficiency standards.
The 7 and 7 rule for attic conversions refers to the common requirement that finished attics be at least 7 feet wide and 70 square feet, with 7-foot ceilings over at least half. Keep in mind that this is a general guideline. Local building codes may have stricter requirements that supersede this rule.
Cellulose Insulation
The typical lifespan is 20 to 30 years, with degradation beginning as early as 15 years after installation. As with other types of insulation, severe weather or outside interference can reduce the lifespan.
Because spray foam can trap moisture, hide the condition of the roof, make it difficult for surveyors to inspect, which means risks like timber decay, dry rot, and not forgetting increased fire risk. If you've got it or you're buying a property that does, this is something you need to know upfront.
Potential problems with spray foam insulation
reduce air circulation and ventilation within a roof space. lead to dampness and condensation on the underside of a roof because it forms an air barrier and stops moisture from escaping. place timber-framed roofs at risk of decay.
When balancing upfront cost and overall thermal efficiency, the cheapest and most effective standard insulation is fiberglass batt insulation. However, if you are looking for long-term savings through superior air sealing, dense-pack cellulose often provides the best overall value.
To achieve an R-30 value, blown-in insulation typically needs to be 9 to 10.5 inches thick. The exact depth depends on the material used, as blown-in fiberglass typically settles at 10 to 10.5 inches, while blown-in cellulose requires about 9 inches.