Sanding the surface and reapplying the stain is the only way to handle uneven stain surface errors. You must also sand everything, not only the uneven stain, to ensure uniformity. Here's a process to follow: Sand The Surface.
If you need a darker glaze to cover up the blotchy areas, use just the tip of a dry, natural-bristle brush to distribute the stain (instead of wiping it off) until it's an even color. Wipe the brush off frequently as you work. If you remove too much, restain that area and start over.
The new stain you are applying over the old stain should be compatible. For instance, if it's an oil-based stain, apply another oil-based stain. If it's a water-based stain, apply another water-based stain. Incompatible stains can lead to poor adhesion or blotchy and uneven finish.
Using most gel stains, you can darken wood furniture, or stay the same color, without sanding off the old stain. But, I usually use General Finishes Gel Stain because the finish always looks beautiful. Don't forget to Save or Share these steps for how to stain wood without sanding.
Removal is Not Always Necessary
In some cases, you can get away with leaving the previous coat as it is, as long as you perform the other necessary preparation steps, such as sanding and power washing.
Make sure you sand the wood well before applying stain. Any scratches will be enhanced by stain. Sanding will also help open up the pores of the wood so that they can absorb stain better. Start with 80 grit to remove big scratches and imperfections, then move up to 120 and finally 220 grit.
In this case, you wouldn't necessarily remove the stain from your wood but you would need to sand the surface lightly before applying the lighter stain over the now sanded existing stain. As we mentioned previously, when you're trying to darken your wood stain there is little to no preparation needed.
PolyShades® will work over stained wood (meaning it does not have a clear protective finish) or wood top-coated with a polyurethane-based finish. Proper surface preparation is necessary to ensure adhesion, so make sure you follow preparation tips provided in this Guide.
Uneven Stain Coloring - Too Light
Avoid applying stain to areas that are already the correct color; if you do accidentally get stain on these areas, simply wipe it off with a clean rag. Avoid adding too much stain to the areas that are too light; you can always go darker with additional stain later.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
Staining has the extra step of removing the excess stain before it dries. You want to make sure that you remove any excess before it dries. If excess is allowed to dry on top of the wood, it leaves a glossy sheen on the wood that doesn't match the rest of the wood. This can give your wood a blotchy look.
If your floor is old and has a bunch of imperfections (e.g. gaps in floor, water stains, knots), a darker stain will often cover up imperfections better than a lighter one. It will also camouflage any gaps in between the planks much better than a lighter floor would.
Yes, each layer will darken your project even more. You can also start with a lighter color Gel Stain and layer on darker colors.
Depending on the type of stain you are using, most stains are dry and cured within 24 hours to 48 hours. After that time, it's safe for additional coats or to apply polyurethane or the sealer of your choice.
Yes! Vanish is capable of removing old stains as well as new stains.
1. Apply white vinegar directly to the stain, let it soak in for a few minutes (don't let it dry). 2. Wash the garment in your machine using the hottest water the fabric can tolerate.
Because of this, you can't get a lighter color by applying a light stain over a dark stain. If you want to lighten the wood you're working with, you'll have to strip it first. In addition to creating a lighter finish, you will need to strip the wood first if your piece has a lacquered topcoat.
If a second coat is applied, it builds the thickness and two things happen. First, the sealer or top coat cannot penetrate through the stain to grab the wood fiber. This causes the second issue, the bond now relies on the strength of the stain to bond the surface coats to the wood.
If the first layer of stain looks perfect, then great! You do not need to add a second layer. You should reserve adding a second layer only if you want a darker color for the stain. However, many times, the first layer of stain will suffice for both adequate protection and the desired color.
Sand out the stain
To sand wood previously stained you must start by using medium-grit sandpaper followed by a progression of increasingly finer sandpaper grits. This should remove most of the color left by an old stain. If you're applying a new stain, it should mask any residual color.
Using a lint free rag is the best way to apply wood stain because it is great for controlling the amount of stain that is applied and for removing any excess stain. Also, the rag leaves a beautiful, even, and brush stroke free finish. It also can easily be thrown out once finished.
So what's the right amount? The best way to know when you're done sanding is to scribble a light pencil line across your wood before you start. Once the line is gone, move up to the next grit. Repeat up to the highest grit sandpaper, then wet your wood with mineral spirits to confirm there are no remaining marks.
We worked in small sections and after the rag, we both rubbed very hard with clean paper towels. After it was all done, we immediately went over it again with clean rags and more paper towels.