Using most gel stains, you can darken wood furniture, or stay the same color, without sanding off the old stain. But, I usually use General Finishes Gel Stain because the finish always looks beautiful. Don't forget to Save or Share these steps for how to stain wood without sanding.
Staining over stain is easy and works beautifully if you're applying a dark stain over a lighter stain on the wood. Remember, it's the same principle as dying your hair! This rule applies to oil-based stains, water-based stains, and gel stains.
Make sure you sand the wood well before applying stain. Any scratches will be enhanced by stain. Sanding will also help open up the pores of the wood so that they can absorb stain better. Start with 80 grit to remove big scratches and imperfections, then move up to 120 and finally 220 grit.
Yes! In addition to trying to darken or lighten a stain, you can also just change the tone of an existing stain. Much like the process of deciding on a lighter or darker stain, you can look at your existing stain and experiment to find the new tone that is right for you.
When preparing wood for stain, you'll need to sand its surface. Use a sanding sponge or orbital sander. Sandpaper with a lower grit number will make wood rougher, allowing more stain to absorb and creating a darker color. Start with 120-grit sandpaper for pieces that already have a finish.
Removal is Not Always Necessary
In some cases, you can get away with leaving the previous coat as it is, as long as you perform the other necessary preparation steps, such as sanding and power washing.
Using a lint free rag is the best way to apply wood stain because it is great for controlling the amount of stain that is applied and for removing any excess stain. Also, the rag leaves a beautiful, even, and brush stroke free finish. It also can easily be thrown out once finished.
In this case, you wouldn't necessarily remove the stain from your wood but you would need to sand the surface lightly before applying the lighter stain over the now sanded existing stain. As we mentioned previously, when you're trying to darken your wood stain there is little to no preparation needed.
Yes, you may apply stain over an already existing stain on the wood. This process is a fairly easy one as long as all the tools are available. The good thing about a staining project is that you have control over the resulting wood tones. It is easier to apply a darker wood stain than a lighter one.
On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
We worked in small sections and after the rag, we both rubbed very hard with clean paper towels. After it was all done, we immediately went over it again with clean rags and more paper towels.
So what's the right amount? The best way to know when you're done sanding is to scribble a light pencil line across your wood before you start. Once the line is gone, move up to the next grit. Repeat up to the highest grit sandpaper, then wet your wood with mineral spirits to confirm there are no remaining marks.
If a second coat is applied, it builds the thickness and two things happen. First, the sealer or top coat cannot penetrate through the stain to grab the wood fiber. This causes the second issue, the bond now relies on the strength of the stain to bond the surface coats to the wood.
No, the sticky stains will not dry after some time, which is why it is important to wipe off the excess wood stain. If you don't, your work will end up sticky because the stain did not dry properly. You will have to use mineral spirits, more stain, or sandpaper to fix the mess.
Uneven Stain Coloring - Too Light
If you find that some areas of the wood stain are lighter than the target color you have in your head, you can apply additional stain to those areas. Use a piece of cloth or rag to apply another coat of the same stain to the wood in the area that is too light.
Apply a second coat of stain after the first has dried fully. This will usually produce a slightly darker coloring with the excess wiped off. Substitute a glaze or gel stain for the liquid stain. Glazes and gel stains usually contain a higher ratio of pigment to vehicle.
With a staining brush, work both with the grain and against it. Don't worry about being neat; all that matters is getting a nice, even, liberal coat over the wood. Wipe the stain off immediately if you'd like a lighter tone. But for a deeper tone, leave the stain on the wood for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping it off.
A semi-transparent deck stain provides some coverage while still allowing the natural wood grain of your deck to show. This is a good option for decks that have already been stained or weathered because it will help revive the color while still allowing the wood to breathe.
Sand out the stain
To sand wood previously stained you must start by using medium-grit sandpaper followed by a progression of increasingly finer sandpaper grits. This should remove most of the color left by an old stain. If you're applying a new stain, it should mask any residual color.
If you try to apply a light color of stain over the top of an existing dark finish, you won't notice much difference. To completely alter the color of the finish, strip down the existing stain using a petroleum-based solvent. Once you've lightened the wood, you may add a lighter color of stain.
Rule #1: Do not over-stain wood
While it may seem like more is better, staining wood more times than necessary will cause more problems. When in doubt, do not apply more than two layers of stain to a wood deck or log home.
Typically, cold water works great on blood, as well as food, beverages and water-based paint, while hot water works best on protein-based stains. Unfortunately, there's no golden rule to stain removal. For example, most food stains should be soaked in cold water, unless it's egg, mustard or a tomato-based product.