In climates that are hot and humid, a vapor barrier should be installed on the warm side (for walls, this would be just beneath the exterior cladding, over the insulation). For very cold climates, the warm side is the interior, so the insulation should have a vapor barrier separating it from the interior wall.
Lastly, the geographic location of the construction needs to be taken into careful consideration when deciding the proper placement of a vapor barrier in relation to the wall assembly. Properly placed vapor barriers should be installed on the warm, humid side of a wall.
A vapour barrier is placed on the inner side of the insulation and is designed to stop moist air from passing through it. A breathable membrane, by contrast, is installed on the outer side of the insulation. Breathable membranes must repel water from the outside while still allowing moisture from the inside to escape.
Add a vapour barrier on the warm side of the wall within the first third of the thermal resistance value of the overall wall insulation.
No it is not recommended to place a vapor barrier between the insulation and the exterior sheathing. If you would like to use a vapor barrier it would be attached to the studs over the insulation behind the drywall. A vapor barrier is to protect the paper backing of the drywall which can absorb water vapor.
Because a vapor barrier is a low permeable barrier, it keeps moisture from passing through. This is beneficial to keep moisture away from a dry surface but will trap moisture behind it if installed on a water-damaged concrete wall, causing the wall to fail further.
General rule of thumb is that the WATER barrier goes on the exterior wall, just under the outer cladding, and the VAPOR barrier goes on the warmest side of the wall, up against the sheathing. You can have only one water barrier, and only one vapor barrier, so you would need to remove the existing one.
Install a New Vapor Barrier
If your vapor barrier was damaged or not installed correctly, it's important to replace it with a new one. This will help prevent moisture from seeping into your crawl space and creating the perfect environment for mold growth.
Joe Lstiburek, an engineer and principal with Building Science Corp. in Westford, Mass., responds: Installing a vapor barrier on both sides of a wall is never a good idea in any climate.
Both are designed to keep moisture out of your home and can be made from various materials. But there are a few key differences, the most apparent being that moisture barriers are better at keeping out liquids, and vapor barriers are better at keeping out water in its gaseous state.
Depending on where you live, the vapour barrier will either go on the inner surface of the insulation (if you live in a cold climate) or the outer surface of the insulation (if you live in a hot climate). It's safe to say that a vapour barrier will be needed for almost all projects.
Vapor barrier materials are installed on the warm side of the insulation in a building assembly, as determined by climatic conditions. In warm climates, it will be on the exterior and in cold climates, it will be on the interior.
Thickness: The vapour barrier must possess a minimum thickness of 0.2mm (200 µm) and demonstrate resilience against impacts, punctures, and moisture penetration. Installation Standards: The film should provide a 200mm overlap at all joints, with penetrations meticulously sealed or taped using a snug-fitting sleeve.
Wall installation for vapour control layers
Generally speaking when you install a VCL to the walls of existing properties, you are installing a stud wall with insulation. If you use permeable insulation material such as sheep's wool, rockwool or fibreglass, the VCL is installed to the warm side of the insulation.
If doing an encapsulation (including the crawlspace in the building envelope and making it conditioned space) the experts agree that the vapor barrier should extend up the wall, stopping four to six inches below the sill plate to allow for an unobstructed pest control inspection area.
From a moisture-protection standpoint, it is my strong belief – reinforced by decades of ACI study and expert opinions – that the under-slab vapor barrier should be located directly below the slab, without the use of a layer of granular fill (sometimes sand) sandwiched between the slab and vapor barrier, often referred ...
Extend vapor retarder at least 6 inches up walls, columns, and footings. Use physical attachments where practical and necessary for long-term adhesion of vapor barrier to vertical surfaces. Overlap all seams at least 12 inches using a reverse or upslope lapping technique.
The sequence of construction steps is up for interpretation and may vary depending on your contractor or construction manager. Some builders swear by installing the vapor barrier first, while others claim that laying the vapor barrier over the insulation is better. Both may be correct.
Is DuPont™ Tyvek® a vapor barrier? No, DuPont™ Tyvek® is not a vapor barrier. It is made with unique material science to keep air and bulk water out while allowing moisture vapor inside walls to escape.
The Cons of Vapor Barrier Installation
Although vapor barriers aim to prevent moisture from entering the structure, they can also trap moisture inside. If not properly installed or upheld, this could result in the proliferation of mold and other issues related to moisture.
Vapor barriers are installed along, in, or around walls, ceilings, and floors. Of course this is done to prevent moisture from spreading and potentially causing water damage.
A high-quality crawl space vapor barrier can be an effective solution for many years, as long as it is not damaged or punctured along the way. Generally, a crawl space vapor barrier that has been correctly installed by a professional and made of high-quality materials can have a lifespan of 20 years or more.
In cold climates, the barrier goes on the warm (interior) side of the insulation. In hot, humid climates, it's placed on the cool (exterior) side. Under flooring: When installing wood flooring over concrete, a moisture barrier protects the wood from moisture damage.
For crawl space projecs that require a vapor barrier installed within walls, builders commonly use a thinner plastic sheeting option such as 6 mil, but for the best durability in the crawl space, our vapor barrier experts instead recommend choosing 8 mil plastic sheeting.
Plastic vapor barriers should only be installed in vented attics in climates with more than 8,000 heating degree days. You can forego the plastic and use a vapor retarder (kraft-faced insulation or latex ceiling paint) in all other climates except hot-humid or hot-dry climates.