For garage walls and ceilings, you should generally use 58 𝟓𝟖-inch Type X (fire-rated) drywall. It is highly recommended to use moisture and mold-resistant drywall (often called green board or purple board) on lower walls, or a tough alternative like PVC wall panels in unconditioned garages.
In your garage, there's room for everything except accidental holes. Accidents happen, but with PURPLE® XP® Hi-Impact® Drywall, your home base for car maintenance, lawn care, sports gear, and tool storage can stay dent-, ding- and hole-free.
1/2-Inch drywall can be made with fire-resistant (Type X) cores, but in general, it offers less protection than its thicker counterpart. 5/8-Inch drywall is often required by building codes for fire-rated assemblies, particularly in multifamily housing, garages, and commercial buildings.
Use Type X fire-resistant drywall for garages, as well as stairwells and areas near furnaces.
If you drywall your garage yourself, you'll pay $0.30 to $2 per square foot in materials, depending on the size of your garage, the thickness of the material, and whether you decide to add texture. If you hire a drywalling pro, you'll pay an additional $1.20 to $1.50 per square foot in labor fees.
You'll likely need a permit since this project may require soil grading to avoid drainage issues. Repairing your floor may be more cost-efficient than replacing it if grading is necessary. No permit may be required to hang drywall on exposed wooden wall studs in your garage.
Drywalling a garage is absolutely worth it if you want to improve fire safety, enhance energy efficiency, or create a clean, usable workspace. However, it can be fragile and makes hanging heavy items difficult, leading many to install Plywood or OSB instead.
For most standard garages, the required drywall thickness is 58five-eighths𝟓𝟖-inch for ceilings to prevent sagging and improve fire resistance, and 12one-half𝟏𝟐-inch or 58five-eighths58-inch for walls. Always confirm your local building codes, as specific Type X fire-rated drywall is frequently required depending on your proximity to the home.
To achieve a 2-hour fire rating, you typically need two layers of 58five-eighths𝟓𝟖 inch Type X (or Type C) fire-rated drywall on each side of the wall, for a total of four layers. The exact configuration depends on the specific, tested assembly you are building.
Unlike drywall, PVC panels won't absorb water, dent easily, or require painting—making them ideal for garages exposed to humidity, impacts, and heavy use. Other strong drywall alternatives include plywood, metal panels, and fiber cement board.
The garage shall be separated from the residence and its attic area by not less than 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board applied to the garage side. Garages beneath habitable rooms shall be separated from all habitable rooms above by not less than 5/8-inch (15.9 mm) Type X gypsum board or equivalent.
Drywall is inexpensive compared to other materials, but you may have to patch or replace it often due to wear and tear. Shiplap. Shiplap is a popular wall material to match a farmhouse aesthetic; plus, it is very durable and can be affordable for your budget.
Improved Fire Resistance
Most 5/8″ drywall panels are Type X — meaning they contain glass fibers and additives that improve fire resistance compared to standard 1/2″ panels. A single layer of 5/8″ Type X drywall provides up to a 1-hour fire rating on certain assemblies.
The majority seem to agree that insulated, unheated garages, should be allowed to breathe. If the garage is heated, you will need a vapor barrier, otherwise you will get frost and mold.
The short answer
Builders leave most garages at a low drywall level because it meets code, saves money, and avoids paint callbacks. Taxes rarely change for paint alone.
No, Trusscore is not cheaper than drywall upfront.
Fire-rated drywall is most commonly 58five-eighths𝟓𝟖-inch thick, which is the standard size for achieving a 1-hour fire rating. However, it is also manufactured in 12one-half𝟏𝟐-inch thickness for specific fire-rated wall and ceiling designs.
Installing double drywall involves adding a second layer of drywall (or Sheetrock) over an existing layer or directly onto studs. Builders and contractors use this technique primarily to achieve superior soundproofing, enhance fire safety, and improve structural stability in specific construction areas.
Drywall screws should be spaced a maximum of 12 inches apart in the field (the center of the panel) and 7 to 8 inches apart along the edges. Keeping screws at least 38three-eighths38 of an inch from the edges prevents the drywall from cracking.
If you do the drywalling yourself, the material cost is around $0.30 to $2 per square foot. That equates to roughly $75 to $1,720 in all, based on your garage size, thickness of drywall, and texture addition. If you work with a professional, you will have to throw another $1.20 to $1.50 per square foot for labor.
Thicker drywall makes almost no difference for temperature insulation. Standard 1/2-inch drywall has a thermal resistance of roughly 𝑅−0.45, while thicker 5/8-inch drywall only bumps this up slightly to about 𝑅−0.55. By comparison, a standard fiberglass wall batt is typically 𝑅−13 or higher.
The best nails for drywall are 1-3/8" or 1-1/2" ring-shank drywall nails (also known as gypsum board nails). They feature a cupped/dimpled head to prevent tearing the paper face and a thin ringed shaft designed to grip securely into wood studs.
An uninsulated garage door is perhaps the biggest culprit for heat loss in your garage, as there is no barrier to slow the heat transfer out of your garage. In order to protect your garage from heat loss, you need a door with insulation.
The best drywall alternatives for a garage are PVC wall panels (for moisture resistance and washability) or Plywood/OSB (for heavy-duty impact and easy shelving). These materials solve common drywall issues—like denting, moisture damage, and the inability to hold heavy items without anchors.
Two common mistakes made during drywalling are improper joint compound application (such as applying it too thickly or not feathering the edges), and failing to stagger the seams across different studs, which weakens the wall and increases the risk of cracking.