Every basement has what's called a cove joint; this is where the foundation walls meet the basement floor. The gap is a result of how the builders poured the concrete during construction.
The gap is an expansion joint. Its only design purpose is to prevent slab expansion and movement from damaging the base of your foundation wall at the footing.
A concrete expansion joint – or control joint – is a gap which allows the concrete to expand and contract as/when the temperature changes. It forms a break between the concrete and other parts of a structure to allow movement without causing stress, which can lead to cracking.
Installing drywall with at least a ½ inch gap between it and the floor will save you many headaches later on. While it may be easier to secure the lower sheets of drywall first while they rest on the ground, the potential for problems both immediately and in the long run far outweighs the ease of installation.
Industrially, gaps up to 20mm get filled with a silicone like sealant. Just use a foam backer rod so you don't waste too much sealant, and maybe mask the wall and concrete edge with tape so you don't get mess everywhere. Trowel the silicone flat and then remove the tape.
Temperature fluctuations, a sagging subfloor, or missing baseboards can create gaps between a wall and the floor beneath it—luckily, caulk can fill most small gaps. Fill large gaps with spray foam insulation, scrap wood, or a long piece of foam insulation.
If you notice gaps forming between the walls and floors in your home, it's a sign that something is wrong with your foundation. These gaps not only look unsightly but can turn into serious structural issues if left unchecked.
Large Gaps and Expansion Joints (Over 1/4″)
All sections should be measured before the filling process. Materials for large concrete gaps and expansion joints include: Non-Sag Caulk: Thick, easy-to-control caulk ideal for larger areas. It requires smoothing but stays in place and works well with a backer rod.
Mudjacking involves drilling small holes into the concrete and then pumping a slurry mixture of water, soil, and cement through the holes. The slurry fills the voids beneath the slab, and the pressure of the mix raises the concrete back to its original position.
Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods. Wear work gloves, safety goggles and a dust mask when hanging drywall.
Masonry screws are an easy solution for fastening a wall to concrete. When you buy the screws, you'll also need to get a special bit that makes a pilot hole matched to the fastener. Drill at least 1/4 inch deeper into the concrete than the fastener's embedment, and suck dust out of the hole with a shop vac.
A.: When it first dries, concrete shrinks and undergoes structural alterations that make some of the shrinkage irreversible. Thus, even if it is later resaturated, the initial drying shrinkage isn't fully recovered.
Concrete: For sealing gaps in concrete, a polyurethane caulk such as Sikaflex 1A Construction Sealant is a great choice. It's waterproof and flexible, making it ideal for use around windows, doors, and other penetrations.
In architecture, a baseboard (also called skirting board, skirting, wainscoting, mopboard, trim, floor molding, or base molding) is usually wooden, MDF or vinyl board covering the lowest part of an interior wall. Its purpose is to cover the joint between the wall surface and the floor.
A floating slab is a single chunk of concrete that sits directly on flat soil, while a monolithic slab is a single piece of concrete that includes built-in footings that reach several feet below where the majority of the slab sits.
Anything below 1/4” inch can be filled up directly with caulk. If the gap is larger than that, you will need to insert a backer rod before filling the gap with caulk. Once you have completed this step, you can smooth out the caulk.
The most commonly used materials for a sub-base include gravel, crushed stone, and sand. Gravel: It's a popular choice due to its excellent drainage properties and ability to distribute the load evenly. Gravel also resists frost heaving in cold climates.
In order to help prevent problems like cracking, weeds, and settling from affecting your concrete, it's important to fill the expansion joints with a flexible non-sag and/or self-leveling caulk. This will provide protection against water and weeds while still allowing the concrete to move as it expands and contracts.
Slab homes are more likely to experience severe foundation cracks than other foundation types. Damage may come from shifting soil, tree roots, freezing temperatures, or natural disasters. These cracks compromise the home's structural integrity and can lead to other issues, such as water infiltration and mold growth.
First, the gap is cleaned of any debris. Then, if the gap is large enough, a backer rod is added to support the caulk. If the gap is smaller, a backer rod is unnecessary and can be filled only using a polymer caulk.
You want to clean cracks, at least one quarter to 1/2″ deep. With cracks that or more than a 1/4 deep. You can fill with silica sand, play sand, or backer rod.
Baseboard: Baseboards are pieces of trim that are installed around the perimeter of a room where the floor meets the wall.
When floor joists become weak, they can no longer adequately support the weight of the floors. This deterioration may cause the floors to sag or settle unevenly, leading to gaps between the floor and the wall. Symptoms can include creaking noises and visible sagging in the affected areas.
Skirting boards are attached to the wall or board, creating a transition from the wall to the floor. Skirting boards form the finish under an object such as a dishwasher. In common parlance, however, the distinction between skirting and baseboard is omitted - and for good reasons.