The best oil for walnut gun stocks is actually a mixture of two oils – teak oil and linseed oil. This mix will help protect your stock from moisture and UV rays, while also providing a nice sheen. To apply this mixture, simply wipe it on with a clean cloth and let it dry. Then, buff it out with another clean cloth.
There is no better oil finish! Birchwood Casey Tru-oil gun stock finish has been the professional's choice for gun stock finishing for more than 30 years.
Walnut that comes from dry climates like Turkey is especially good for intricate carving. Walnut has been used for gunstocks for a very long time and has become the staple of highgrade/quality production guns as well as limited-edition shotguns.
Walnut stocks, or any other type of solid wood that hasn't been varnished or lacquered, can benefit from a few thin coats of gun stock oil. It's crucial to use only small amounts of oil, otherwise each coat will not dry properly and will just leave a greasy, sticky mess.
The most popular homeowner gunstock finish is probably Tru-Oil. You can get it at almost every store that sells guns. Tru-Oil is polymerized linseed oil. It is linseed oil that has been cooked at high temperatures in an oxygen-free environment (inert gases) until it just begins to gel, then rapidly cooled.
The main difference between tru oil and tung oil is that tru oil can give a harder, more varnish-like finish, while tung oil lets you experience the natural feel of the wood.
We recommend using our High Lustre Polymerized Tung Oil formulation as it builds to create a well sealed and durable coating, while maintaining a hand rubbed, “gun stock” finish.
All walnut pieces need a good regular dusting. It's best to avoid commercial cleaners. These can leave residue on lacquered wood or damage oil and wax finishes. Oil finished furniture does best with the application of natural linseed oil once a year.
Walnut is lovely wood, especially when carefully air dried so as to preserve the rich chocolate, purple and black tones in the best of it. HOWEVER, It fades like mad in sunlight. Furniture is touched by sunlight. Therefore, the lovely colors of the walnut go away — and it doesn't take centuries.
Neutrals infused with earthy tones like green and brown work beautifully here. However, avoid overloading your interiors with too much walnut furniture, especially if it has a dark hardwood floor. Break things up with a neutral area rug or think about neutral upholstery.
In terms of walnut best suited for gunstocks, most is taken from three species: Juglans regia (Circassian, English or French walnut; also many other types), Juglans nigra (American, Eastern and Oregon black walnut) and Juglans hindsii (California black, claro and Hinds walnut).
It resists warping, suffers little shrinkage and isn't prone to splitting, which is important when working with something as lively as a shotgun.
Depending on the desired look and amount of protection needed, either could be a suitable option. However, Cerakote offers superior durability and protection against corrosion, while Blueing provides an average attractive finish with slightly less maintenance required.
Without a doubt, English walnut is the finest wood for gunstocks. Alternatives to English walnut are Circassian walnut and Turkish walnut. Claro walnut is black walnut that grows in California. California has a twelve month growing season, unlike states with walnut trees which have severe winters.
Cerakote is easy to apply and dries quickly. You don't have to worry about it peeling or flaking off over time. A Cerakote finish should last for several years if it is applied correctly. Be sure to follow all of the application instructions and allow the proper amount of time for each coat to dry.
In short: Yes, you can without any doubt use tung oil on walnut. By penetrating the wood's pores, this oil smoothens its surface and lends a lucent brown hue to the walnut for protecting it from moisture, ultraviolet radiations, and other environmental components.
Woods such as oak, mahogany and walnut are characterized as having “open grain” because the wood pores are large. In contrast, “closed grain” woods like hard maple, cherry, poplar and beech have smaller pores. You don't have to fill the pores of any wood before applying a finish.
General Finishes EF Sanding Sealer is a high quality acrylic waterborne sanding sealer that builds fast and makes sanding smooth and easy. For wood with large, open grain, such as walnut or mahogany, sanding sealer is especially handy as a final fill after most of the grain has been evened out with grain filler.
Walnut trees thrive in fertile, deep, well-drained soil. They begin to bear fruit four to i ve years after being planted and can continue to grow and bear fruit for a century or more. Walnuts are harvested using mechanical shakers that shake the nut to the ground during harvest time in September through November.
Species such as maple and walnut dry at an intermediate rate, ie a 1” walnut board air dried in the south in the summer time will dry in about 120 days, and species such as oak, mesquite, and hickory dry very slowly (ie 1” per year).
Sometimes during the finishing process we use water to 'pop' the grain before final sanding to help achieve a smoother finished surface. It also gives you a sneak peak into what the piece will look like when the finish is applied.
Linseed oil is generally easier to apply than Tung oil which is non-toxic and creates a soft (rather than glossy) finish. While it is easy to touch-up, linseed oil provides no significant barrier against scratching or moisture as does varnish.
Boiled linseed oil cures faster than tung oil, overnight in a warm room when all the excess is wiped off, as opposed to two or three days for tung oil. (Raw linseed oil cures much slower – weeks at a minimum – so raw linseed oil will remain sticky for a long time, even with the excess wiped off).