An improper cut like a flush cut (cutting too close to the trunk) or a stub cut (cutting too far from the trunk) can cause irreversible damage to a tree. A flush cut removes the branch collar and leaves a large wound in the side of the tree that won't heal properly.
Damage caused by pruning
When improperly performed, pruning can harm the tree's health, stability, and appearance. Several consequences occur when pruning is not performed at all. These include development of low aggressive limbs, weak codominant stems, bark inclusions, and accumulation of dead branches.
No Flush Cuts
While it may look clean and streamlined, a flush cut removes the branch collar, an area of tissue that's needed to form a seal over the pruning cut. Because the plant cannot close over the wound, a flush cut leaves an opening for pests and pathogens to enter the plant and damage or kill it.
In pruning, there are three primary types of pruning cuts, thinning cuts, reduction cuts, and heading cuts, each giving different results in growth and appearance.
Severe pruning means the cutting of branches and/or trunk of a Tree in a manner which substantially reduces the overall size of the Tree or destroys the existing symmetrical appearance, natural shape or health of the Tree and which results in the removal of main lateral branches leaving the trunk and branches of the ...
The hard pruning approach involves cutting the entire plant down to around 3 to 6 inches from the ground in very early spring before any foliage is emerging. This timing will minimize stress on the plant and direct energy into the growth of new stems.
How to Fix an Over-Pruned Tree or Shrub. While some plants need a heftier prune than others, in general, the golden rule is to trim no more than 15 to 20 percent of a tree's canopy at one time. Keep that in mind for next time.
The first consideration for pruning the canopy of young trees is called the Five D's. These are branches that can and should be removed at transplanting, or at any time as the tree is maturing. The Five D's are any branches that are Dead, Dying, Damaged, Diseased and Deformed.
The 1/3 rule involves cutting about 1/3 of wood during any pruning activity. This moderate pruning practice is a balanced approach to thinning out shrubs to stimulate new growth. The plant loses a good amount of stems, usually on the top section, allowing more light and air to enter the inside of the plant.
April, May and June are not good months to prune because deciduous trees need to use their stored energy to produce new leaves instead of healing wounds. Also, pruning during warmer spring months encourages the spread of diseases such as Oak Wilt and damage by pests such as Emerald Ash Borer.
Common Mistakes
Prune just above a healthy bud, with the bud pointing in the direction you want the plant to grow. Cut at a 45-degree angle, with the low point of the cut opposite the bud. Don't cut too far from or too close to the bud you want to encourage. Leave a “collar” when cutting off a branch.
Over-pruning
Any cuts you make to a plant, old or new, are left as open wounds. While plants are able to heal these wounds and come back stronger, they are still wounds that leave the plant vulnerable. Rather than training the plant correctly and aiding growth, over-pruning will only cause further stress.
Municipalities and homeowners often remove the lower limbs for pedestrian and vehicular clearance or to let the sun shine in for grass to grow. Mature trees, especially evergreens, benefit when healthy lower branches are left intact. Removing large limbs can increase the risk of decay.
Cut too much and you'll risk nutritional deficiencies or branches that are too weak to tolerate the wind or fend off diseases or insect invasions. Over pruning and topping can permanently disfigure your trees, or even kill them. Further, a tree's foliage is important for protecting it against excessive sun exposure.
Pruning Methods
Side pruning involves pruning branches growing toward power lines on one side of the tree only. Any tree with a base located 15 feet or more away from the center line of BrightRidge conductors will be side pruned. “L” pruning is practiced when tree limbs cannot be pruned to a suitable lateral.
ALWAYS prune back to or just above a growing point (branch or bud) or to the soil line. NEVER leave a stem or branch stub. NEVER top a tree to “rejuvenate” growth.
A tree wound sealer is a commercially available product that is applied to the cut section of a recently pruned tree or shrub. In many ways, the idea of applying a tree wound dressing makes sense to a gardener, as a kind of Band-Aid for the plant.
The first cut is a shallow notch made on the underside of the branch, outside the branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree. 2. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
When pruned properly, removed tree branches will not grow back. Instead, the tree will grow what looks like a callous over the pruning cut, which helps protect the tree from decay and infection.
Make judicious cuts to encourage new growth. Cut just before a leaf node. Or when cutting back larger stems, cut as close to the main stem as possible. However, do not remove more than 25 percent of the plant.
Pruning Too Early
If you prune too early in the season, there's a good chance you'll snip the buds right off their branches, which means no flowers in the spring. Before you cut, do a little research, like with our pruning guide, or just wait to trim until the plant has finished blooming for the year.
Over pruning reduces the foliage needed to make food for the tree, so in effect, it starves it. When a tree has been over pruned, you may not see much new growth during the spring. In the winter, more branches than usual will break as a result of heavy loads.
Watering is very important during the couple of weeks or more that a plant is recovering from root pruning. Right after pruning, I give the whole pot a thorough soaking. As new growth begins, I make sure to thoroughly wet all the soil at each watering.
As a general rule, a light summer pruning can be performed on most deciduous trees and shrubs. Heavier pruning should be performed when the tree is dormant, preferably in late winter before active growth begins.