Yes, a whetstone needs to be wet in order to be used. It should be soaked for at least 45 minutes, or per manufacturer instructions, Wetting the stone helps it last longer, while stones used dry tend to wear out faster.
The reason for this is that the whetstone will be far more efficient if it is lubricated with water. Moreover, the stone won't wear as easily so it will last you longer. As you sharpen the blade, a build-up of swarf or slurry will occur which is a combination of the tiny pieces of metal you are removing from the knife.
First, you will soak your whetstone in water. Fine grit whetstones only need a few minutes of soaking; some chefs do not soak their fine grit stones to prevent any risk of cracking. Coarse grit whetstones should soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Once soaked, place a coarse grit whetstone on top of a kitchen towel.
Does this mean that non-water stones should be used 'dry'. No, this is also not the case. Instead of water you could also add a couple drops of oil to the surface of some whetstones. This mostly applies to very hard natural sharpening stones.
As u/knifeq2121 said, you can't ruin a knife by sharpening it, unless your using a very coarse stone and pressing with all your strength.
Not all knives are the same and different knives require different types of sharpening tools and techniques. Using the wrong tool or technique can damage the knife.
While some stones – like those made of diamond or ceramic – can be used dry, they still usually benefit from a little water. Soaking the whetstone is important because it helps protect the stone from damage and wear. Sharpening your knives with a dry stone won't hurt the knife, but it will damage the stone over time.
Soaking stones can take up to two days to dry. Dry them properly before storing them to avoid moisture-related damage to the stone or the box. Splash-and-go stones should dry in a few minutes.
The sharpening stone must be wet to prevent stone dust and steel particles from clogging up its pores. Once the stone is drenched, you can then proceed with the sharpening. Hold the knife at a 20-degree angle against the stone to prevent the blade or cutting edge from becoming damaged.
Push the point you want to sharpen with your fingers. While keeping the angle and pushing the point with your fingers, stroke the blade until it reaches the other edge of the whetstone, then pull the blade back until it reaches the edge of the whetstone. This back and forth is counted as one stroke.
Whetstones have an average lifespan of up to six years. If you use yours less often, you can expect to get more use out of it. Every time you sharpen a knife, it wears down the center of the stone. This wear and tear will eventually cause the stone to break apart.
To Sharpen = To Whet
Any stone used for sharpening was therefore called a "whetstone" or "whet stone". The terms "sharpening stone" or "honing stone" have largely replaced whetstone these days, but you will still hear it used occasionally.
The blade should move smoothly across the stone. Lift the knife, reset the heel at the top of the stone, and repeat. Count each pass made, so you're keeping each side of the knife even and not accidentally taking more material off one side than the other. Repeat as few as ten times and as many as 50.
Test the stone: To determine if a stone is oil or water based, you can place a few drops of water on the stone and observe how it reacts. If the water beads up and does not soak in, it is likely an oil stone. If the water is absorbed into the stone, it is likely a water stone.
To flatten a stone, wet it with water or oil (depending on the type of stone) and rub the flattening plate evenly over its entire surface until all grayish evidence of previous sharpenings has disappeared.
It comes from the Old English term “hwettan” which means “to whet or sharpen.” Coincidentally, most whetstones do need some type of moisture for top performance. In all cases, this means water or oil. However, a majority of stones you'll find in stores or online–particularly for kitchen use–will be waterstones.
This is why we do sharpening on both sides, even on single-edged knives. Doing light sharpening on the opposite side is the way to solve this burr issue and remove them. With carbon steel knives, this is quite easy to do, but stainless steel knives are much trickier due to being more difficult to sharpen in general.
Don't use excessive pressure, just pass the steel over the stone for about 30 seconds. Rinse the stone and the steel under running water to be sure you are rinsing off any diamond particle that may have come loose. Repeat the process for another 30 seconds and your stone should be broken in.
The last step in sharpening is removing the burr – the hide side of an old leather belt will do, or buy a strop such as this one. A bit of baby oil on the leather will help you get a nice, even covering of the polishing compound. As with most things, you get what you pay for.
First, you shouldn't soak 3000 or over grit stones before use. Yet, you can splash some water if that's really necessary. Plus, bear in mind that you shouldn't use oil or any other type of lubricants or grease, but use only water for lubricating the whetstone.
Whetstones, Waterstones, & Sharpening Stones
Simply put, a whetstone is a stone used for sharpening tools and knives. The name derives from an antiquated word 'whet' meaning to sharpen.
A lot of people apply far too much pressure when they begin sharpening their knives and this can damage the blades. You do need to apply a certain amount of pressure but this should be really light and only come from your fingers; not your whole hand.
It's just some, like ceremic knives, are hard and brittle and need special equipment to sharpen them, like diamond Lapping. Ceremic blades are harder than normal honing stones, so, will not make any sharpening effort. However, pretend rubber knives are only for show and definitely cannot be sharpened.
Sharpening is the practice of aggressively polishing a knife to reform its edge. You'll only need to do this for very dull knives. In the process, bits of metal are actually shaved away. That's why sharpening a metal blade calls for material harder than steel, such as stone or ceramic.