You should always cut just above a node, as this prevents 'die back' and therefore disease. Also, by cutting above a node you can manipulate new stems, leaves or flowers to form in a desired direction, as nodes form on different sides of a stem.
Using a sharp knife (or pruners) cut just below where a leaf attaches to the stem (the node). Roots grow easiest from this location. If you leave a section of stem below the node, it often rots. Remove the lower leaves but leave the top two or three.
Any cutting needs to have a connection point where new stems can form. These are called nodes. To find nodes on your plant, find the newest leaves that have appeared. Place your fingers on the stem right next to the new leaf, and then trace the stem backward to where it connects with another stem.
Trim the cutting in the following way: Make the bottom cut just below a node (a node is where the leaf and/or the bud joins the stem) (Figure 1). Remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the leaves, starting from the bottom of the cutting. Cut large leaves in half (Figure 2).
You'll want to cut just below the node (the area from which leaves grow) at a 45-degree angle.
Always prune just above a node on a stem.
In this way, the dormant buds in the node itself will grow out into new stems. If you cut below a node, you leave a section of stem (the internode) that cannot grow new stems. This section will be prone to rotting and becoming susceptible to diseases that can kill your plant.
You should always cut just above a node, as this prevents 'die back' and therefore disease. Also, by cutting above a node you can manipulate new stems, leaves or flowers to form in a desired direction, as nodes form on different sides of a stem.
Inadequate Moisture: Cuttings need to be kept moist, but not waterlogged. Overwatering can lead to rot, while under-watering can cause the cutting to dry out and die. Use a spray bottle to mist the cuttings regularly with fresh clean and ensure the soil is consistently moist but well-drained.
It is important to cut below the node as this is where the cells responsible for pushing out new roots are located.
Rooting will generally occur in 3-4 weeks but some plants will take longer. When the roots are 1-2 inches long or longer the cutting is ready to be potted up.
To get a cutting for Pothos propagation, follow these steps: Trim a 4-6 inch piece just below a root node. Ideally, the cutting will have 4+ leaves and at least two growth nodes. Pothos plant propagation can be done in water or soil, but once it begins, the plant has difficult switching to the other growing medium.
Plant the Cutting in the Soil
Carefully plant the cutting in the hole you made in the potting mix, and gently tamp the soil around it. You can fit several cuttings into one container, but space them so the leaves do not touch one another.
Using bottom warmth of 70-75°F will encourage root growth. Rooting usually takes about 6 weeks for evergreen azaleas and 3 to 4 months for large-leaf rhododendrons. Once the cuttings have rooted, pot or transplant them to flats containing a sterile mix of 60% milled sphagnum peat moss and 40% perlite.
Always prune to just above a bud. This bud will then be the growing point and any material above it will die back. However do not prune so close that you risk damaging the bud. If you do damage the top bud through pruning, cut back to the next appropriate one.
Follow the 1/3 rule
When making pruning decisions, keep in mind that you can safely remove up to one-third of the plant's growth at any one time. There may be times when you prune more, such as when you are rejuvenating an overgrown shrub, but generally speaking, the “one-third rule” is the best guideline to follow.
Cut off all lower leaves with sharp secateurs or a knife (taking care when doing this) – you just want a couple of postage stamps of leaf left at the top at most. Then cut neatly just below what is called a node, the point where a leaf was attached, to leave about 10cm or so of cutting.
Another way to reduce water loss is to keep the cuttings in a humid atmosphere – place a clear plastic bag over individual pots or use a propagator with a lid.
Add fresh, tepid water when needed. You can replace the water every few days, or simply top off the vessel with fresh water when it's looking low—as long as there is no murkiness or fungi growing. If the water is murky, we recommend replacing it for the health of the growing root system.
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Do not prune deciduous shrubs in late summer. Pruning shrubs in August or early September may encourage a late flush of growth. This new growth may not harden sufficiently before the arrival of cold weather and be susceptible to winter injury.
CAN AN ADULT-USE RETAIL DISPENSARY, MICROBUSINESS, OR ROD LICENSEE SELL ADULT-USE CANNABIS CLONES, SEEDLINGS, IMMATURE CANNABIS PLANTS, CLONED PROPAGATION MATERIAL, OR TISSUE CULTURE DIRECTLY TO CONSUMERS? Yes.
A safer way to check if your clone has roots is to evaluate the condition of the clone. Clones with a lot of roots will be pushing new leaf buds. As a result, their color will be vivid and alive. A struggling clone may also have roots, but it will likely not push leaf buds.
Cutting leaf tips reduces rooting success rate and having three leaves on the clone results in higher root quality than clones with just two leaves. So if you want your clones to develop many roots quickly, take cutting from either the top or bottom of the mother plant that have at least 3 full leaves.