The first consideration for pruning the canopy of young trees is called the Five D's. These are branches that can and should be removed at transplanting, or at any time as the tree is maturing. The Five D's are any branches that are Dead, Dying, Damaged, Diseased and Deformed.
Dead, diseased, damaged, or deranged – think this is not the description of a horror film character? Guess again! At TreePeople, and in the field of arboriculture, they are known as the 4 D's. It is the simple way to remember what to prune out of a tree to help ensure it is happy and healthy!
LaRene Bautner from Millcreek Gardens demonstrates a trimming tutorial with focus on the “3 D's for pruning” : Dead, Diseased, Damaged.
One of the simpler but important pruning strategies involves the three D's: Remove any plant parts that are dead, diseased and dying.
The 1/3 rule for pruning shrubs refers to the practice of cutting about 1/3 of wood or a branch. This approach is applied to fully established shrubs and small trees. This is done at this stage since the established shrubs and plants are past their transplant shock.
Infer tree as well as possible. Convert tree to equivalent set of rules. Prune each rule by removing any preconditions that result in improving its estimated accuracy. Sort final rules by their estimated accuracy and consider them in this sequence when classifying.
These are the 3 Cs (crossing, competing and crowding) of pruning. On grafted trees you might see growth below the graft or in the ground, this is the rootstock trying to express itself as its own tree. These can be removed anytime as they rootstock growth will divert energy away from the grafted tree.
Branches should be pruned at the branch collar-NOT at mid-branch. Mid-branch pruning, called tipping or topping depending on branch size, is harmful to trees, promotes the growth of weakly attached epicormic sprouts, and can lead to the death of the branch or the tree! Sharp, clean tools make the smoothest cuts.
Spring flowering trees should be pruned after flowers have dropped. To avoid the introduction of disease pathogens to oaks and elms, avoid pruning between April 15 and October 15. Prompt pruning of storm-damaged limbs and dead branches should be done to encourage wound closure and avoid potential hazards.
The thick re-growth of new branches (sprouts) caused by topping makes the tree top-heavy and more likely to catch the wind. This increases the chance of storm winds blowing branches out of the tree. A tree can be properly pruned (thinned) to allow wind to pass through the branches.
ALWAYS prune back to or just above a growing point (branch or bud) or to the soil line. NEVER leave a stem or branch stub. NEVER top a tree to “rejuvenate” growth. Â This ruins the plant's natural shape and greatly increases its susceptibility to diseases, insect pests, and storm damage.
How to top a tree without killing it? There is no safe way to top a tree without putting the tree at severe risk for structural instability, disease, decay, and overall health decline.
Pruning lower branches from trees is not harmful and benefits the tree's overall health when done properly. However, improper pruning techniques can damage a tree and lead to decay, stress, diseases, and reduced growth. It's important to use the correct methods or hire a professional.
The 1/3 rule involves cutting about 1/3 of wood during any pruning activity. This kind of moderate pruning is like giving your shrubs a good balance – it thins them out a bit and encourages new growth.
In John 15:2 (AMP), Jesus says, Every branch in Me that does not bear fruit, He takes away; and every branch that continues to bear fruit, He [repeatedly] prunes, so that it will bear more fruit [even richer and finer fruit]. Pruning is vitally important for us to grow in our walk with God.
Pruning in autumn and winter could potentially damage the plant, as it can unbalance the root to shoot ratio during a period when it is too cold to regrow. The best time to prune is after flowering.
The closer to the tree's trunk roots are cut, the more significant and harmful the damage will be. The 25% Rule – Never cut roots beyond 25 percent of a tree's total volume. The tree may die or fall as a result of this.
Using a sharp knife (or pruners) cut just below where a leaf attaches to the stem (the node). Roots grow easiest from this location. If you leave a section of stem below the node, it often rots. Remove the lower leaves but leave the top two or three.
Make pruning cuts just outside the branch collar to avoid damaging the trunk and compromising wound responses. Improper pruning cuts may lead to permanent internal decay.
3) The 3 in 1-2-3 refers to 3-year-old wood that was cropped when 2 years old and sometimes 1 year old. Renew the 3-year-old wood by cutting it back hard (Figure 3). This way you will generate new laterals, and the cycle starts again (Figure 4).
Get the angle right
Make cuts at an angle of 45°, so that the top of the cut slants away from the bud and in the direction that the bud is pointing. This minimises surplus tissue that might rot, and helps the top of the stem to shrug off water, directing it away from the delicate bud.