Sanding sealer is a clear liquid base finish that is applied to bare natural wood or to any uncoated wood product. Sanding sealer always must be sanded down smooth after it has dried. Sanding sealer helps improve the condition of subsequent coats of paint or clear finish by sealing the wood pores.
Some experts recommend sealing the pavers before adding sand, while others recommend doing it after. The important thing to remember is that the sealer will protect the paver surface from staining and fading, so it is important to choose a quality sealer regardless of when you apply it.
Sanding sealers fill and raise the wood grain, creating a rough, gritty feel. After the wood is sanded with a fine grit sandpaper, it is ready for the 3rd and final step--a clear, non-yellowing top coat, which you can find in Aqua Coat's full top coat line.
We recommend no more than 1-2 coats, then finish with 1-2 coats of topcoat.
Lightly sand the surface with 220-280 grit sandpaper. A powder should develop when sanded. Do not over-sand to avoid removal of the sanding sealer or previous stain.
Use a brush or floor finish applicator and apply in the direction of the grain. Apply the sealer on two or three board widths at a time, being sure to keep a wet edge. Avoid over-applying or over-brushing. Let dry for 45 minutes before sanding with #120 to #150 grit or finer sandpaper.
On bare wood, the first coat will dry to the touch in 5-10 minutes and can be sanded or recoated in 20-30 minutes. Subsequent coats or coats applied over existing finishes will dry to the touch in 10-15 minutes and can be sanded or recoated in 1 hour.
The thin viscosity makes it easy to spread and allows it to penetrate into porous woods. To start apply 1 thin coat and allow it to dry. Lightly scuff sand to remove any raised grain fibers, then apply an additional 1 to 2 coats to seal wood and provide an excellent surface that will be ready to topcoat.
Adding sand and additives to sealer means better results for your asphalt surface. So, when choosing an asphalt contractor, make sure that this preparation is part of their process. Without this critical step, the asphalt sealer will be very slippery.
Just 1 hour after application, it sands quickly and easily to a fine powder, delivering great results with minimal time and effort. This sanding sealer builds even faster than two coats of varnish and is more forgiving of application inconsistencies - even if it drips or sags, it quickly sands out.
The main difference between an undercoat, sealer, and primer is that primers are applied to a new surface, while sealers are used as either the substitute to a primer or they are applied before the primer. An undercoat is typically used on a surface that has already been painted.
Thinning: Mix Sanding Sealer SS-501 with Lacquer Thinner at a rate of 1:1 (equal parts). Brush: Use a good quality nylon or polyester brush.
A sanding sealer must be applied after the stain but before the finish coat because otherwise it would prevent the stain from penetrating.
Expert Tips For an Extra Smooth Finish:
A sanding sealer is not the same as a wood conditioner. Whereas a wood conditioner is a pre-stain treatment that reduces blotchiness when staining, a sanding sealer is applied only to bare wood that is not going to be stained.
It's generally better to use a dedicated paste wood filler (pore filler) to fill pores than the finish itself, or sanding sealer, because finishes continue shrinking. This will cause the pores to noticeably open up a little after a few weeks or months.
It's a good idea to do this fine sanding between coats anyway to remove dust nibs. But polyurethane doesn't bond so well over finishes marketed as sealers, especially over sanding sealer. This sealer is good for use under non-polyurethane varnishes because regular alkyd varnishes gum up sandpaper.
A Sealer is a mixture of oils and resins as well. However, it produces low viscosity as compared to varnish, which simply means that the sealer practically penetrates in to the wood to nourish and protect not only the outside but more importantly, the inside.
Regular readers will know that we do not recommend over-thinning the Cellulose Sanding Sealer; it's a common myth that it needs to be thinned 50/50 to work better, but as a general rule this is incorrect.
These back marks are called metallic discoloration, or iron stains, caused by elemental iron reacting with phenolic chemicals in the wood, forming black iron tannates. Iron stains require the presence of iron, water, and wood and will not occur if one of these elements is absent.
Apply one single coat with a brush or cloth and wait for it to dry. Not very long, an hour or so in warm conditions. Apply a coat of wax, or you can give it a second application of sanding sealer and then wax it.
If you don't sand between layers of polyurethane, the surface may become streaky or discolored. This formula prevents chemical solvents from bonding to it. Once the first layer of paint is dry, you can apply a second coat to make sure everything remains. Each coat of oil-based polyurethane finishes is applied on top.
If you don't sand between coats of polycrylic, the first coat will be pestered with dust particles and grain, causing the topcoat to not cling to the base coat properly. Furthermore, you will notice uneven application instead of a smooth surface.