Do not apply stain to the top of the sanding sealer. To work properly, wood stain needs to soak into the pores of the wood. Sanding sealer negates this process. The stain will sit on the surface and not be absorbed.
The thin viscosity makes it easy to spread and allows it to penetrate into porous woods. To start apply 1 thin coat and allow it to dry. Lightly scuff sand to remove any raised grain fibers, then apply an additional 1 to 2 coats to seal wood and provide an excellent surface that will be ready to topcoat.
Sanding sealers fill and raise the wood grain, creating a rough, gritty feel. After the wood is sanded with a fine grit sandpaper, it is ready for the 3rd and final step--a clear, non-yellowing top coat, which you can find in Aqua Coat's full top coat line.
Sanding sealer can be used over many surfaces:
Raw wood: Use as the first coat when clear coating raw wood. Painted Wood: Use as the first coat when clear coating painted surfaces. Stained wood: Use as the first coat when clear coating a stained surface.
Michael Dresdner: "Sanding sealer is never mandatory. It is an option that saves time and material in some situations, and is unnecessary in others. Some woods, like cedar, spruce, and poplar, are so porous that they tend to suck up the first few coats of sprayed lacquer as if nothing were applied.
The order which you apply stains and sealants varies on what you're currently working with. For the best performance, we recommend stain first, seal second, and apply Advance Topcoat third. This will provide the best protection of your home.
The main difference between an undercoat, sealer, and primer is that primers are applied to new surfaces, while sealers are applied before a primer or as a substitute for a primer. An undercoat is typically used on a surface that was previously painted.
Just 1 hour after application, it sands quickly and easily to a fine powder, delivering great results with minimal time and effort. This sanding sealer builds even faster than two coats of varnish and is more forgiving of application inconsistencies - even if it drips or sags, it quickly sands out.
Regular readers will know that we do not recommend over-thinning the Cellulose Sanding Sealer; it's a common myth that it needs to be thinned 50/50 to work better, but as a general rule this is incorrect.
It's a good idea to do this fine sanding between coats anyway to remove dust nibs. But polyurethane doesn't bond so well over finishes marketed as sealers, especially over sanding sealer. This sealer is good for use under non-polyurethane varnishes because regular alkyd varnishes gum up sandpaper.
Sand Thoroughly
When preparing wood for stain, you'll need to sand its surface. Use a sanding sponge or orbital sander. Sandpaper with a lower grit number will make wood rougher, allowing more stain to absorb and creating a darker color. Start with 120-grit sandpaper for pieces that already have a finish.
Once you're done sanding, make sure you've gotten rid of ALL the sanding dust before you do anything else. Use a good vacuum and then a tack rag to wipe the surface clean of any contaminants. The next step is the trick here. Wipe the surface thoroughly with a a wet cloth.
On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
Before painting a surface, you should apply sealers . They provide fantastic adhesion and can be a substitute for paint primers. What makes sealers different is that they make porous surfaces non-porous. It also can be used before primers to create another protective barrier.
In my article, Staining and Varnishing, I suggest sealing the surface with thinned varnish. The more traditional way is to apply a thinned coating of shellac. Many people prefer shellac to varnish for sealing, because it dries much faster. Prior to staining the carving pictured above was sealed.
There are many types of sanding sealer available, including shellac, acrylic and cellulose. We recommend using a pre-thinned sealer such as Hampshire Sheen's Pre-thinned Cellulose Sealer. This will save you the time, as well as the mess, that can often be involved with thinning other cellulose sealers.
Expert Tips For an Extra Smooth Finish:
A sanding sealer is not the same as a wood conditioner. Whereas a wood conditioner is a pre-stain treatment that reduces blotchiness when staining, a sanding sealer is applied only to bare wood that is not going to be stained.