Shock is chlorine, in a high dose, meant to shock your pool and raise the chlorine level quickly. Chlorine tabs (placed in a chlorinator, floater, or skimmer basket) maintain a chlorine residual in the water. You do need to use both tabs and shock.
SKIMMER NOTES: No. Chlorine and shock are not the same thing.
Shock has a more intense chemical strength than the traditional chlorine sanitizers, and it also differs in how you should apply it to your swimming pool. Short answer: No. Chlorine sanitizers and shock are similar but different in strength.
Similarities Between Liquid Chlorine & Powdered Shock
Similarly, both forms have a higher concentration of available chlorine than those used in daily chlorination. They also both kill nearly all living microorganisms, bacteria and contaminants with ease.
Shocking will restore the proper chlorine level and restore water clarity. Both available in various forms: Chlorine comes in liquid, dissolvable granules, and granule pucks/tablets for slow-release. While shock is more fast-acting, it's also available in both granule (most common) and liquid forms.
Your pool's chlorine will combine with contaminants and bacteria and other dangerous organisms will grow as temperatures rise. Bring your water chemistry back into balance. Shock your pool to break up the combined chlorine and release it back to free chlorine.
How Often Should I Shock My Pool? Shocking your pool regularly will help to keep the water clean and free of contaminants. You should aim to shock your pool about once a week, with the additional shock after heavy use. Some tell-tale signs that your pool needs to be shocked are cloudy, foamy, green, or odourous water.
A pool filter should be run for a minimum of 6 hours after shocking a swimming pool. This is to allow the filter to clean the water and give the shock enough time to fully mix with the pool water. Running the filter after shocking for 24 hours to 7 days is necessary if the pool has a large amount of algae.
"Shocking” refers to the process of adding chlorine or non-chlorine pool chemicals to the water in order to raise the "free chlorine” level. The goal is to raise this level to a point where contaminants such as algae, chloramines and bacteria are destroyed.
Brush the pool vigorously, several times after shocking the pool. Do not use a solar blanket until chlorine and pH level are normal. If chlorine level drops to zero within 24 hours, Repeat the shock treatment. Improve filtration with a pool filter cleaner or filter aid like Jack's Filter Fiber.
The cold water, anything below 65°, has an impact on the ability of the chemicals to dissolve properly. I would recommend using liquid chlorine if you have to shock in lower temperatures. You can dissolve granular shock in warm water. Perhaps it will work if you completely dissolve it before adding it to the pool.
Swimming pool shock contains 12.5% sodium hypochlorite (bleach) vs. 6-8.5% for Clorox (bleach). Some Clorox products go as high as 8.5%. At a 12.5% concentrate, liquid pool shock is approximately 2x's stronger than Clorox bleach.
There are four main types of pool shock: calcium hypochlorite, sodium hypochlorite, sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione, and potassium monopersulfate. Calcium hypochlorite is the most commonly used pool shock with a typical chlorine level of between 50 to 80 percent.
Pools are shocked to keep the water healthy and clean by removing algae and bacteria after heavy bather use or contamination events. In addition, pool shocking is used to eliminate harmful combined chlorine in the water.
After Shocking Your Pool
It is safe to swim once your chlorine levels are around 5 ppm or after 24 hours. It is always best to test first!
Pools can immediately turn green after shocking when they have metals like copper in the water. These metals oxidise when exposed to high levels of chlorine which makes the pool water turn green. Adding a metal control product such as Zodiac Metal Remover will help to restore the pool water.
It Should Not Be Done Together
This is because when you mix chlorine and algaecide together, it renders both of them useless. Hence, you should first shock the pool and wait for the chlorine levels to fall below 5 PPM. Only then should you introduce algaecide to get the best results.
Raise the Level of Pool Chlorine
Raising pool chlorine can be much easier than trying to lower chlorine levels. Simply adding chlorine in the form of chlorine tablets, granular chlorine, liquid shock or powder shock will increase the total amount of chlorine within the pool.
If the pool is still very cloudy or green, you may need to shock it to make it safe to swim in again. First, make sure that the filter system is working properly and the chemicals are still at the proper levels. Next, mix up your chlorine shock (hyperchlorinate) treatment.
Before you start pouring shock in the pool, the first step is to brush the sides and floor of your pool to loosen all the algae. Doing this breaks the skin and allows the pool shock to more easily kill the algae. Once you've done this, it is important to make sure you have the proper pH level in your water.
Shocking your pool isn't necessary, although, it's not a bad idea either. If you get an extremely heavy rain fall, you could shock your pool for good measure. This will help fight off any contaminants that the rain may have brought to your pool.
Although it's generally recommended that all the pool water undergo filtration every 24 hours, the pump does not need to run all the time. A proactive, productive and energy-saving maintenance activity is to remove the debris floating on the pool surface with a hand-held skimmer.
So, not only is shocking a saltwater pool okay, but it's actually important to your pool's health. Shocking is the process in which you overload your pool with chlorine (3-5 times the normal amount) to improve your pool's cleanliness and kill off organic matter.
Short answer: yes. Longer answer: it depends on the formulation. The label on every bleach bottle should tell you the ratio of sodium hypochlorite (and available chlorine) in the bottle to everything else. A higher percentage is generally better, as you'll need to use less bleach to treat your pool.
You do not need as much pool shock during winter as you normally would to achieve the same effect. The National Institutes of Health found that at normal summer water temperatures, the efficacy of chlorine was 2-3 times less than for water temperatures around 50 degrees.
Shocking the pool during the winter months can certainly help to avoid a green swamp-like pool in the spring. It's often recommended. However, poor water balance or improper application can lead to unintended consequences, such as discoloration and damage to pool surfaces.