I think the answer to your question is about 3-6 days. The problem is that the chlorine that you need to keep the bacteria in check is used up more quickly as the temperature rises, the activity increases, and as sweat and other body stuff is put into the pool.
CDC recommends pH 7.2–7.8 and a free chlorine concentration of at least 1 ppm in pools and at least 3 ppm in hot tubs/spas.
The ideal level of free chlorine in the swimming pool is 2 to 4 ppm. 1 to 5 ppm is acceptable and 9 ppm is on the high side. 9 ppm would likely be safe to swim, but could be more of an irritant. Ideally, the level would be alllowed to come down to 5 ppm before swimmers are allowed to swim.
What chlorine level is too high to swim? It depends on who you ask, but the acceptable range is between 1 to 5 ppm. (So, for example, 10 ppm chlorine is not safe to swim in — that's too high.)
At chlorine levels over 10 ppm, swimsuits can begin to fade. Pool covers become damaged, and the water is generally uncomfortable and unsafe for swimmers. Close the pool and keep covers off until chlorine levels fall back below 5.0 ppm.
As chlorine does its job, it is depleted in the process. To prevent the demand for chlorine from happening, help remove the organic material from your pool water by brushing the algae from the pool walls, cleaning your filter, and removing leaves and debris from the water.
Strong Smell of Chlorine
A healthy, safe pool will have little to no odor. That smell comes when your pool is out of balance. The smell of chlorine arises when the chemicals are dealing with a lot organic material like sweat, urine, and bacteria in your pool.
recommends. The bottom line: We're vastly better off having pool chemicals than not, and chemically treated pools are generally safe to swim in, especially if they are well maintained and ventilated.
It takes a lot of chemicals to make pool water safe for swimming. Untreated water can accumulate harmful Escherichia coli and Salmonella bacteria and protozoans such as Cryptosporidium parvum and Giardia lamblia.
Maintenance is critical when it comes to the quality of your pool water. Well maintained pool water can last up to 5, maybe even seven years before you need to replace it. This means weekly cleaning, functional filters, and checking ph levels every day. ... High-quality water is essential to the health of swimmers.
The most common chemical used in the treatment of swimming pool water is chlorine. It not only eliminates bacteria and algae by disinfecting (killing) action, it also oxidizes (chemically destroys) other materials such as dirt and chloramines.
So if you have to rely on your pool, the only sure way to make the water safe for consumption is to filter and distill it. Filtering gets the big stuff out and even many chemicals (if you're using a carbon-based filter) and distilling it will remove everything else.
Should the green be due to pollen, there may be little to do in the way of minimizing the discoloration short of erecting a building around the pool. Fortunately, assuming there are no allergies to the pollen, it is safe to swim in a pool with that as the cause for green water.
Shock is liquid or granular chlorine. You should add one gallon (or one pound) of shock per 10,000 gallons of pool water every week to two weeks. During hot weather or frequent use, you may need to shock more frequently.
After Shocking Your Pool
It is safe to swim once your chlorine levels are around 5 ppm or after 24 hours. It is always best to test first!
If you test your pool water and can't get a chlorine reading, it may be due to your pool's high demand for chlorine. A high chlorine demand (sometimes referred as chlorine lock), simply means that although your water may appear clear and balanced, the chlorine in your pool is ineffective.
Your pH levels affect your chlorine levels and the ability for the chlorine to do its work properly. If your water's pH is too high, it hinders the chlorine's ability to efficiently clean the pool. A water pH level that is too low causes the chlorine to dissipate more quickly.
If your total chlorine level is high, you will use a non-chlorine shock; if it is low, you will use a chlorinated shock. As a rule, you will need to raise free chlorine to 10 times your combined chlorine to hit what is known as “break point.” Therefore, it is good to deal with combined chlorine while it is still small.
Using liquid chlorine raises the pH of the water.
Liquid chlorine does not raise pH. When added to water, liquid chlorine (which has a pH of 13) makes HOCl (hypochlorous acid – the killing form of chlorine) and NaOH (sodium hydroxide), which raises pH.
Free chlorine refers to the amount of chlorine that has yet to combine with chlorinated water to effectively sanitize contaminants, which means that this chlorine is free to get rid of harmful microorganisms in the water of your swimming pool.
Pump the water from the pool or spa to the cleanout or indoor drain. Contact your local public sewer provider 24 hours in advance if you are draining more than 100,000 gallons. Replace all cleanout covers when done.
Yes, boiling water for 15 minutes is one way to release all the chlorine from tap water. At room temperature, chlorine gas weighs less than air and will naturally evaporate off without boiling. Heating up water to a boil will speed up the chlorine removal process.
Boiling is the best way to purify water that is unsafe because of viruses, parasites, or bacterial contamination. Don't boil the water if the contaminants are toxic metals, nitrates, pesticides, solvents, or other chemicals. Boiling won't remove chemicals or toxins.