Gather together a cotton ball, and a little rubbing alcohol. Dampen the cotton ball with the alcohol, and begin to wipe it along the woodwork. If, after the alcohol has dried, the woodstain is a little lighter in color, then you know that the stain is water based. Oil based stains really don't react to alcohol at all.
Water-Based Paints: Can be tested by using a damp cloth or sponge. Water-based paint will start to dissolve or smudge when rubbed with water. Oil-Based Paints: Will not dissolve in water but can be tested with a cloth dipped in mineral spirits or paint thinner. If the paint dissolves or softens, it is likely oil-based.
You can usually look at the clean up instructions on the can. If it cleans up with soap and water it's latex/water based. If it requires mineral spirits it's likely oil based.
Polyurethane, Shellac, Varnish and Lacquer – Use a cotton swab with acetone on it and apply to the wood. If it becomes tacky, than it is shellac or varnish and if it beads, it has a polyurethane finish. If it is lacquer, the lacquer will dissolve completely.
Rub the wall with paper towel or a cotton ball soaked in acetone, or nail polish remover that contains acetone. If the paint comes off on to the cotton ball, it's latex. If not, it's oil.
The glossy surface of oil-based paints makes it so difficult for any other paint to bond. That's why, if you apply water-based paint straight to oil-based, it will flake and crack as the water-based paint pulls away. So, to get oil-based ready to paint over, you need to take away a lot of that gloss.
COLOR: Oil based poly has an amber hue, whereas water based poly is clear. An oil based polyurethane will continue to amber and darken over time, while water based poly will remain clear for the lifetime of the hardwood floor.
The grain pattern is a sure way of identifying the wood type. In practice, hardwoods such as European oak lumber or mahogany have an open poor structure while softwoods are almost smooth with zero grain indentations. Another pattern worth observing is if the wood was plain sawn or quarter sawn at the time of cutting.
Oils, like tung oil, linseed oil, and Danish oil, appear more natural and greatly enhance the existing grain pattern of the wood. If you love the current appearance of the wood and want to preserve the look as much as possible, a clear stain or polyurethane finish is a good choice.
Oil-based stains will give you a darker, more opaque finish than water-based stains.
Simply put some methylated spirits on a rag and wipe at a small section of your wall. If the cloth is stained with the wall colour, it is water-based. If you wish to repaint your existing oil-based wall with a water-based paint, sand back the wall with sandpaper to remove the sheen.
One way to tell is to perform the “rag test” by using a clean white rag and a small amount of paint thinner or mineral spirits. The rag test can help you to tell if the paint is oil-based or water-based. Additionally, you can check the paint cans to see if the paint is oil or water-based.
If you put latex paint over oil, you'll end up with that fruit roll-up look all over your house because they just can't adhere.
Hold the painting at an angle and look at the paint's texture on the canvas. If it's highly textured and looks very layered, the painting is likely an oil painting. Acrylic paint dries smooth and somewhat rubbery-looking (unless an additive has been used to give the paint a thicker texture).
Use the cotton cloth and pour some denatured alcohol on it. Rub the surface gently and asses the cotton cloth. If your cotton cloth gets covered with paint, you have water-based paint with a latex base. But if the paint doesn't come off after a second or two of rubbing, you most likely have an oil-based paint.
Examining the tangential and radial surfaces of wood for the characteristics of rays can help you identify wood species. Rays vary both in height and width, so examining both surfaces is key in identifying wood species. Looking at the tangential surface will allow you to look at ray height.
The feel of the wood can also indicate the type of finish. Smooth and slick surfaces usually suggest a lacquer or shellac finish. These are often found on modern pieces like beds and bunk beds. On the other hand, if the surface feels slightly tacky or waxy, it's probably an oil or wax finish.
When using a water-based product over an oil-based product, such as water-based High Performance Topcoat over oil-based Gel Stain, If the oil finish was applied over raw wood, wait 24 hours between the two products. If the oil finish was applied over an existing finish, wait 72 hours between the two products.
Water-based polyurethane has a tendency to interact more with the wood grain, which often necessitates the application of multiple coats to achieve a smooth finish.
If the coating is over seven to 30 days old and can be scrubbed without affecting the finish, consider it cured. If the existing natural oil-based coating hasn't cured, only use a natural oil-based paint to cover it. To cover an alkyd paint that hasn't cured, use an alkyd or a natural oil-based paint.
Oil based stains are somewhat more water resistant than the water based finishes. Due to this, by sprinkling a little water onto the stained area you can tell if the stain is water or oil based. Simply wait for a minute and see if the water beads up. If it does, then you have an oil based stain.