Decay or fungi. Peeling or loose bark or cracks in the tree around the tree's root collar. Swelling, soft or decaying wood, or small holes in the tree trunk. Dead, dying, or drooping branches in the canopy.
Spots or blemishes on leaves, fruit, and/or bark. Fuzzy or moldy-looking patches. Holes in leaves. Dead, dying or dropping branches.
Check Roots
Cavities or hollows near the base of the tree or in large roots can also be a sign of trouble. Cracked or raised soil on one side of a tree trunk could indicate the start of leaning and weakness. New construction and soil compaction can also damage roots.
Probably the most visible (and most obvious) of the tree hazards, a broken or hanging limb is a telltale sign that your tree is, in fact, a danger. However, limb damage isn't always so obvious. A professional tree inspector will look for splits and cracks to determine how severe the damage is.
Once you've determined that your tree is sick, you'll need to take steps to help it recover. Depending on the cause of the illness, this may involve pruning, fertilizing, applying fungicides or insecticides, removing dead or damaged limbs, or providing additional resources like water and light.
Your local county Agricul- tural Extension office can assist you with problem identifica- tion. A few common visual symptoms of nutrient deficien- cies are small chlorotic leaves, dead areas of leaf tips and margins or between veins, dieback of stem tips and twigs, bark lesions and excessive gum formation.
Stressed tree symptoms will manifest in a number of ways. Distorted or missing growth, substances or spots on foliage, and lack of vigor are some of the first clues that your tree is stressed.
They look like a (horizontal) tree: they flow from the top of the tree on the left to smaller branches on the right. We'll talk you through the process of putting the right questions at the top of the issues tree, and how to ask questions to get to the root causes on the right side of the page.
Fertilizers can quickly save your trees from dying. However, not applying them properly will damage your trees more.
Trees do best with infrequent, deep waterings. Prune trees only when it is necessary for structure, health, and safety purposes. Remove vines, turf, or competing vegetation surrounding the tree's trunk.
Trees and shrubs that need fertilization to stimulate more robust and vigorous growth include those exhibiting pale green, undersized leaves and reduced growth rates and those in declining condition (for example, dead branch tips, called dieback) resulting from insect attacks or disease problems.
While recovery from tree disease is possible in some cases, it largely depends on the disease's nature, the tree's health, and the environmental conditions.
Yellowing or Wilting Leaves: One of the primary signs of overwatering is the yellowing of leaves which may also be wilting or drooping. The excessive moisture around the base of the tree prevents the roots from absorbing oxygen, leading to nutrient deficiencies and weak, yellow foliage.
They can appear as mushroom structures in the soil or near or at the base of the tree. Also, shelf-like structures of fungi can grow on trunks and/or branches of trees. They can indicate root rot, butt rot, and root decay.
Spread Mulch Around Your Tree
Adding mulch around the base of the tree is a great way to nourish the soil and help prevent fungal disease, regulate soil temperatures, help with drainage, and restore the tree's overall health.
Once a disease is identified, arborists can prescribe the appropriate treatment. This may involve pruning away infected branches, applying fungicides or antibiotics, or implementing cultural practices like adjusting watering or mulching to mitigate disease progression.