Hand tighten the plastic nut and do not overtighten it or you could break the porcelain tank. Next, connect the small end to the nipple on the angle stop valve. Hand tighten the nut, then use your wrench to tighten the connection just a bit more (never more than a quarter turn past hand tight).
Screwing a supply line on too tight is one of the worst things you can do. Such overtightening will cause the metal threads inside of the line to become warped, making it much easier for water to slip past.
Screw in the nut between the supply line and the toilet by hand, then use a wrench to do an additional quarter of a turn. You do not want to tighten the nuts too much, or you might strip their threads and damage them. Be sure to turn it to the left. Remember: Righty tighty, lefty loosey!
Hand Tight is Right
It seems to go against common sense, but plumbing pipe fittings don't have to be super tight in order to function properly. In fact, pipes should only be hand tight to help aid the flow of water throughout your home.
Check the mounting bolts.
(You may need a small screwdriver for this task.) See whether you can jiggle either of the bolts underneath with your fingers. If a bolt is loose, simply use a socket wrench to tighten the nut until you feel some resistance.
Toilets are made of vitreous china and if the tank bolts are over tightened, the china will crack and can cause a leak. The leak will come directly from the toilet tank and can be anything from a slow drip to a good flow of water.
Hand tighten the plastic nut and do not overtighten it or you could break the porcelain tank. Next, connect the small end to the nipple on the angle stop valve. Hand tighten the nut, then use your wrench to tighten the connection just a bit more (never more than a quarter turn past hand tight).
Under tightening can lead to poor seals and weak connections, but Overtightening can cause more complex problems to fix. Torque sensitive is the term used to refer to this need for carefully controlled NPT and NPTF wrench-tight installation.
PVC Supply Lines: These plastic lines are affordable and easy to install but typically last around 5-8 years. They are more prone to cracking and should be inspected regularly. Copper Supply Lines: Known for their longevity, copper lines can last up to 50 years.
The chances of the bolts corroding or getting worn out are even higher if the water is hard. However, it's not always that you need to replace the tank bolts. Sometimes the leakage may be due to loose bolts. In this case, you will only have to tighten the bolts and straighten the wobbly toilet tank.
Signs of a leak could be a puddle behind the toilet, a constant dripping sound in the wall, or behind the toilet. You may also notice poor pressure or the tank or bowl not filling with the usual amount of water. These can all indicate there's an issue with your toilet water supply line.
This supply line has a life span of 6 to 8 years and it's best to replace at the time of install. If you expect to have the toilet in for a long time, we recommend a soft copper supply line which last longer than the normal stainless steel.
Common issues that can cause a water supply line leak include wear and tear, corrosion, or a crack or small hole in the line. If your water line is damaged, it's important to replace it with a new supply line to prevent water damage and any further leaks.
Vertical: The water supply line should be positioned 8 1/4 inches above the floor. Horizontal: This line is typically 6 inches to the left or right of the centerline of the toilet. Double-check your toilet's specific water supply connection to confirm its location.
The extent to which you tighten the bolts is also important. They should be snug, but not too tight.
Making Connections Too Tight
Cranking pipes, couplings, and joints too hard can be as risky as loose connections. The strain from a too-tight connection can crack and rupture fittings. While the damage won't occur right away, it's likely to develop within weeks.
Few 1/4 inch fittings screw in 4.1 threads before they reach finger tight. As a general guideline, after hand-tight engagement, tighten 2-3 full turns for sizes up to 1 inches for NPT fittings. You should have between 3.5 and 6 engaged threads.
NPT threads are designed to be used with a sealing compound such as Teflon tape to create a leak-free seal, whereas NPTF threads form a mechanical seal by crushing the entire thread form.
Additionally, while not required, Teflon tape can add further security to your installation if your toilet hose is leaking. And taking that extra step never hurts!
They should be hand tightened and then another 1 or 2 turns, but no more.
The standard rough-in size for a toilet is 12 inches in contemporary houses and 10 inches in older homes. These are the toilet rough-in dimensions: Supply line (vertical): 8 1/4 inches of height to accommodate most base moldings. Supply line (horizontal): 6 inches maximum to either side of the toilet centerline.
After you've tightened your fastener, use a torque audit wrench to slowly apply force in the tightening direction until you notice the first movement in the fastener. The reading is a reliable indication of the originally-applied torque. This is the most trusted measure of torque after tightening.
The snug-tightened condition is typically achieved with a few impacts of an impact wrench application of an electric torque wrench until the wrench begins to slow or the full effort of a worker on an ordinary spud wrench. More than one cycle through the bolt pattern may be required to achieve the snug-tightened joint.
Ruining the Fastener
If the screw is so tight that the tools mentioned above cannot move it, applying them may cause the screw head to strip out or snap off, which compromises the integrity of the attachment and renders the fastener useless.