Expect cuttings to begin to form roots in 2-3 weeks depending on temperature (faster in warm weather) and humidity. Some cuttings root in as little as one week.
Remove the lower leaves of the bottom two leaf nodes. The leaf node is where a leaf comes out of the branch. Most roots will form at that point. Dip cuttings in rooting hormone (this is entirely optional) and insert into damp vermiculite or sterile medium.
You can tell that a root system has developed if you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem. Can you root hydrangeas in water? Shrubs with woody stems like hydrangeas do not easily root in water. It is best to encourage their rooting with rooting hormone and then planting the stems in soil.
Fill one or more six-inch-wide containers with damp sterile potting soil, or a soilless mix containing half peat moss and half perlite. Avoid using soil from the garden or any soil that is rich in fertilizer. The excess nutrients could cause the cutting to rot before rooting can occur.
The best time of year to take Hydrangea stem cuttings is from spring when the plant is leafing out, to late summer when the leaves are still lush and green. If you live in a warm winter climate such as coastal California, you can even propagate Hydrangeas in early fall.
You can propagate hydrangeas in water in a similar way to propagating hydrangeas in soil however using this method can lead to varying results. Propagating in water can lead to a weaker root system that might fail when moved into soil outside, however, this does not happen 100% of the time.
Hydrangeas are pretty flexible; they can be started from softwood cuttings (fresh new growth) taken in early spring, when the plant is just leafing out, or semi-hardwood cuttings (partly matured first year growth that may have developed a semi-woody base) in late summer.
Technically, you can transfer your cuttings to soil at any time. In fact, you can actually propagate directly into soil, however, it's much harder to do within your home. When you propagate in soil, you have to keep a good balance of soil moisture, air flow, and humidity.
Most common hydrangeas prefer a partial sun location - ideally receiving sun in the morning hours and shade in the afternoon. The reblooming Endless Summer® Hydrangea series prefers part shade.
For best results when planting hydrangeas, follow these steps: Create a hole twice as wide as the plant's root system, and about six inches deeper than the plant's pot. Break up the soil a bit before you plant to help the roots easily establish themselves.
To loosen the soil, mix dehydrated cow manure, garden compost or peat moss (up to 1/3 concentration) into your pile of topsoil. Make sure the peat moss you get is either baled sphagnum or granular peat.
Transplant shock is a common side effect of moving plants. The telltale signs are wilting and falling leaves, and hydrangeas not blooming. In severe cases, your plant may not recover. 'You can minimize the risk of hydrangea transplant shock by digging up as much of the root ball and surrounding soil as possible.
It should sit barely above the surrounding soil. Hydrangeas have shallow roots, so don't plant too deep. Add soil back underneath if needed.
Dig a hole that's about 2 times wider than the root ball and about as deep. Place the hydrangea's root ball in the hole (if the root ball is compacted, score it several times with your shovel or trowel to loosen the roots).
To rejuvenate the hydrangea, remove up to 1/3 of the older living stems down to the ground each summer. This will revitalize the plant. If necessary to control the size of the plant, cut back before late July to allow for buds to develop. Usually the plant will return immediately to its former size.
Cut the two remaining leaves in half crosswise (not lengthwise). If available, dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone. While rooting hormone will increase the chances of successfully propagating hydrangeas, you can still propagate hydrangea shrubs without it. Now, stick the cutting into damp potting soil.
Some experts recommend that the best time to take cuttings is in early spring when hydrangeas are beginning to leaf out and growing a lot (which makes sense). Some gardeners swear by rooting them in winter, where they'll grow more resilient roots versus summer (which also makes sense).
You can also propagate climbing hydrangeas by taking softwood cuttings in spring.
Plant cuttings mistakes can range from using dirty tools to potting up your cuttings in the incorrect potting soil. Too much harsh sun, too much or not enough water, and using offcuts from plants that are sickly or flowering can also put your cuttings at risk.
After two or three weeks, check to see if roots have formed by working your hand under the cutting and gently lifting (Figure 3). If no roots have formed, or if they are very small, firm the cutting back into the mix, rebag, and check for roots again in one to two weeks.
If you don't prune hydrangeas then they can eventually resemble a tangled mass of woody stems, and the flowers will become smaller and less showy.
The third way to propagate your hydrangea is to take cuttings in the fall. In early September cut pieces off the newest stems that are about eight inches long.
Other times, you might need a fork or shovel to help divide the plant. Either way, once you have two pieces with roots attached to each, you now have two plants to replant. The best time to divide bigleaf hydrangeas is very early spring, just as new green buds are starting to swell and open along the stems.