We recommend getting ahead of your plants and not waiting until your perennials have outgrown their space so much they are crowding each other out and dying. Divide healthy, large plants every few seasons in the garden. The best time to divide your plants is early spring when the plant first shows signs of new growth.
We typically start getting our early spring plants — ones that can withstand some cold — the first week of March, and we often see frost in May, so “early spring” usually runs from March into May.
Wait until early spring to transplant fall bloomers like coneflowers, rudbeckia, asters and sedum. Check with your local extension office or trusted nursery for the best time to move summer bloomers like daylilies and yarrow; in general, wait a few weeks after a plant blooms before moving it.
Early Spring, while plants are still dormant or asleep, is the perfect time to move them and re-arrange your garden.
Planting too early in cooler temperatures can cause stunted growth, wilting, surface pitting, foliage necrosis and increased susceptibility to disease. Low soil temperatures can stunt plant growth and prevent root development. Most summer vegetables like soil temperatures of between 55 and 65 degrees.
We recommend watering heavily right after getting the plant in the ground, waiting 30 minutes for the water to soak into the ground, then watering heavily again. The deeper the water gets into the ground the better.
Recovery time may vary from plant to plant. It depends on the age, type of the transplanted plant, soil type, and climatic condition of the planted location. In the seedlings stage, it will take up to 2-3 weeks, but in matured plants or trees, it will take up to years. 3.
Whether your garden goals for the year include a vegetable garden, a perennial herb garden, or general landscaping ideas around your porch, patio, pergola, or pool, April is the time to start planting.
If your perennial blooms in the spring or early summer, it should be transplanted in the fall. If your perennial blooms in the late summer or early fall, transplant it in the spring. Remember that when transplanting in the fall, the perennial needs to be in its new location about six weeks before the first hard freeze.
The best time to divide your plants is early spring when the plant first shows signs of new growth. This helps the new plant's roots acclimate before the summer heat kicks in.
Lupine. In areas with cool summers, lupines are prized perennials that attract butterflies and hummingbirds. The secret to beautiful lupines is rich, slightly acidic soil that drains well. This deep, tap-rooted perennial doesn't respond well to division or disturbance, so let plants set seeds instead.
Most perennials can be moved and transplanted without much trouble, says Jerry Goodspeed, Utah State University Extension horticulturist. Transplant perennials when the weather is cool, even a little rainy, if possible. Early spring and fall care are best times for transplanting.
Root crops (carrots, beets, turnips, etc.) are not suited to transplants as the process will damage the root. Corn, cucurbits (squash, cucumbers, melons) and beans/peas don't like to be transplanted but can be with care.
Every time you dig up a plant, it loses some roots. In hot weather, this root deficit may make it impossible for a transplant to cool itself. The best times for transplanting perennials are the months when the weather is cool. Spring often works well, and fall is one of the transplanting seasons of choice.
Spring and fall are fine for planting hydrangea bushes; wait for cooler weather and transplant the bushes in late fall or very early spring while the plants are dormant but the soil is workable.
The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring after new growth has appeared. A good time to transplant them is right after their first flush of young spring leaves, but before the true heat of summer arrives. You can also transplant them in the fall, but be sure to do so before the first frost.
In general, it is best to divide spring and summer blooming perennials in the fall, and fall bloomers in spring. By dividing the plant when it is not flowering, all the plant's energy can go to root and leaf growth.
Many gardeners cut back their perennials much too soon. There are nuances specific to certain perennials that dictate whether it is better to cut them back in fall or spring, but the general rule I like to follow is to only cut back perennials that start looking bad in fall.
When planting: Water plants as soon as you get them in the ground. Allow the water to soak in, then water again until the soil is thoroughly moistened. Week one: Water plants daily or every other day. Recently planted roots will absorb moisture from a small area until they begin to grow.
Spring Perennial Plantings:
Week 1: Every day to every other day. Weeks 2-3: Water 2-3 times per week, depending on environmental conditions. Weeks 4+: Water 2-3 times per week, more in hot/dry conditions.
Perennials are slow growers at first: They take the first one to three years to establish deep roots and dense foliage. However, once established, they thrive with little maintenance to give your yard beautiful new growth year after year.
Perennials are tough plants. They're less fussy about when you plant them or move them. Most perennials can be planted any time from the last winter frost through autumn. When planting or transplanting, dig a hole that's twice as wide and no deeper than the container, then backfill the hole with soil.
Sugar water does not do anything to help plants with transplant shock, and it can make it worse. Often, plants recover on their own. Just give them time, keep them well-watered and protect them from too much sun to prevent more leaf scorch.
Magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) can help reduce transplant shock by providing essential nutrients and nutrient absorption to the plant. Magnesium is a key component in the makeup and creation of chlorophyll.
A dilute, high-phosphorous fertilizer is preferable at transplant. We recommend Neptune's Harvest Fish Fertilizer (2-4-1), which is approved for certified-organic farms, or SeaCom PGR Seaweed Concentrate (0-4-4).