Some perennials, like hostas, peonies and daylilies, need to be pruned in fall to avoid winter damage. Plants like these should be pruned after the first few frosts in late fall or early winter. Other perennials like mums and coneflowers are better off being pruned in spring just before new growth comes in.
2. Perennials and shrubs that are in your zone or one colder can be overwintered in an unheated garage, buried in the ground, or transplanted. 3. Perennials and shrubs in containers will need water through the winter but should not be kept wet.
Plants and perennials that require additional protection to survive your winter will need a deep layer of mulch added by mid November or later, when the ground is beginning to freeze. Do NOT add deep mulch too early or your plants will not be slowly exposed to colder temperatures, allowing them to acclimate for winter.
Perennials NOT to Cut Back
Also, do not cut back hardy perennials like garden mums (Chrysanthemum spp.), anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), and Montauk daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum). Leave the foliage. It's important to protect the root crowns over winter.
So, keep an eye out for your local weather forecast and get your plant coverings ready when temperatures are forecast to dip to 32 degrees F and below.
Overwintering Techniques
The general consensus seems to be that the best way to overwinter containerized perennials is to take the entire pot and bury it in the ground. This way, the roots are protected like they would be if the plants were actually planted in the garden.
Cutting back of dead or dying top growth is the only maintenance that is needed for winter preparation. Cut the stems down to the ground, or to the basal growth if you are gardening in the warmer hardiness zones. Alternatively, the flower stems can be left to cut back in the spring.
Cover Plants – Protect plants from all but the hardest freeze (28°F for five hours) by covering them with sheets, towels, blankets, cardboard or a tarp. You can also invert baskets, coolers or any container with a solid bottom over plants. Cover plants before dark to trap warmer air.
Most perennial plants go into a state of dormancy, or winter rest, as a result of the cold temperatures and shorter daylight hours of winter. These sleeping plants lose their stems and leaves and are dormant, not dead! They will re-grow from their roots with the arrival of spring.
At any time during the warm season it is okay to cut back dead or ugly foliage. When winter has arrived, and your perennials have either died back or stopped growing, you can remove all dead foliage. Then apply an inch or two of compost or mulch around plants. Leaves work great for mulch as well.
Many gardeners cut back their perennials much too soon. There are nuances specific to certain perennials that dictate whether it is better to cut them back in fall or spring, but the general rule I like to follow is to only cut back perennials that start looking bad in fall.
Divide fall blooming perennials in the spring because
Plants have stored up energy in their roots that will aid in their recovery. Rain showers that generally come along with the early season are helpful. Plants divided in spring have the entire growing season to recover before winter.
For Rudbeckias with multiple flowers on a stem, just snip off the spent blooms. In autumn, cut Black-Eyed Susan back to about 4 inches tall (10 cm.) or, if you wouldn't mind a few more Black-Eyed Susan plants, let the last blooms go to seed for the birds.
Cutting back Black-Eyed Susan late in the spring, just as the first flush of flowers form, will result in many more flowers later in the summer and much bushier plants. Many herbaceous perennials can benefit from this early pinching back.
Black Eyed Susans: End of Season Care
Overwintering: Cut remaining stalks to the ground in either fall or spring. Dividing & Transplanting: True perennial types, especially Rudbeckia 'Goldstrum' will benefit from dividing every three to five years. Leave any varieties designated as 'short-lived perennial' undisturbed.
Frost zaps many perennials back to the ground. Plants are busy storing sugars and other nutrients in their roots to sustain them through winter. To support plants through this season of transition, make sure they get adequate water until the ground freezes.
The key to success with garage storage is that this area is attached to the house but not heated. The garage never goes below 32 degrees but tends to hover in the 40's and low 50's all winter. This keeps the plant dormant but the plants never freeze. Watering is needed, but not too much or too often.
Winter Protection Techniques
If possible, find an area in the garden that you can dig up, and sink the pots into the ground so their roots will be insulated by the surrounding soil; then mulch heavily with straw, shredded bark, or leaves as you would other plants.
When should I wrap my plants for winter? This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook suggests to start wrapping your plants in November. If your plants are new, be sure to cover them for the first two years. The older your plants get, the sturdier they become in surviving winters.
Fabric coverings will prevent the freezing air from coming into direct contact with the moisture on the plant while also capturing the heat that is radiating from the ground. Bed sheets or comforters work best for covering large plants and shrubs.
Any gardening expert will tell you, (contrary to what you may believe) that pruning encourages new growth just when the plant is trying to go dormant and new growth doesn't have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures hit. Pruning at this time of year will severely weaken the plants.