Most trees will survive transplant shock and some will rebound quickly in one month to 6 weeks, while others may need a dormant period to completely recover. To prevent transplant shock in the future (aside from time of year), consider planting on a cool cloudy day, when rain is forecasted in the next 24 hours.
Symptom. Leaf scorch is a common symptom of transplant shock. Leaf scorch first appears as a yellowing or bronzing of tissue between the veins or along the margins of leaves of deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves in winter). Later, the discolored tissue dries out and turns brown.
Some trees take a couple of years to get rid of most of their stress symptoms. Occasionally, it could even take up to five years for trees to fully recover.
EFFECTIVE TREATMENT: Maintain Adequate Moisture: Ensure the soil stays consistently damp but not saturated. Using a well-balanced soil mix can enhance drainage and keep moisture levels optimal, helping to avoid overwatering—a common problem following plant shock.
This is known as transplant shock and happens because the plants' roots were likely damaged during the transportation process. Epsom salt can help plants overcome transplant shock.
Dead trees and trees in shock can look deceivingly similar, but there's an easy way to tell the difference. Pick a random twig on the tree and scratch it with your finger or a pocket knife. Do the same for a few other twigs throughout the tree. If they're all bright green and moist underneath, viola!
Newly planted trees or shrubs require more frequent watering than established trees and shrubs. They should be watered at planting time and at these intervals: 1-2 weeks after planting, water daily. 3-12 weeks after planting, water every 2 to 3 days.
We recommend soaking the root ball slowly with your garden hose, gradually moving the hose around the perimeter of the tree. In addition to soaking the root ball, water the area around the edge of the tree well to encourage outward root growth.
Give tree roots at least one inch of water per week. Apply a two-to-four-inch deep layer of mulch from the base of the tree to the drip line. Keep mulch five inches away from the trunk. Don't over prune young trees, unless it's to remove dead or damaged branches.
The most common reasons for transplant shock and root stress are planting too deep, poor drainage, backfilling with composted soil amendments, damaging the stem/root ball connection during planting or excessive watering.
Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require approximately 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil.
Liquid and gel forms of root stimulators tend to be the most effective, safest, and easiest to use. BAC's Root Stimulator is one of the best root stimulator for plants.
Newly planted trees must remain hydrated, but it can be tricky knowing how to properly water them. One thing that should be avoided is over-watering the plant and making it soggy. You want to keep the root ball and soil surrounding it intact. The key is to provide the plant and soil with moisture without overdoing it.
The general timeline is: Hair loss initiates around the 2nd-3rd week following the transplant surgery. Shedding reaches its max around the 6-week mark post-operation. Shock loss declines by months 2-3 and transitions into the renewed growth phase.
Nitrogen, in particular, enhances the growth of lush foliage at the expense of root growth. That is why it is usually best to leave your tree without fertilization for the first one to two years after transplantation.
Wilting, rolling or curling leaves are common when a tree is experiencing transplant shock. Dying leaves, even in the spring and summer, can sometimes be found on stressed trees after planting. Discoloration of needles in evergreens is a sign of stress.
Transplant shock can last from two weeks to five years, depending on the plant or tree you're growing. This can cause temporary stagnation of growth or flower and fruit production. The longer the transplant shock remains, the higher the chances of the plant dying.
Fertilizers can quickly save your trees from dying. However, not applying them properly will damage your trees more.
An important note about branches: a single dead branch or twig does not mean the entire tree is dead. All large trees will have some dead branches; it's part of their life cycle. However, if a tree has multiple large, dead branches, something could be wrong with the tree.
Since transplant shock mostly stems from root stress, transplant shock symptoms look similar to symptoms of drought. This includes: Wilting leaves or flowers. Premature fall color.
A dilute, high-phosphorous fertilizer is preferable at transplant. We recommend Neptune's Harvest Fish Fertilizer (2-4-1), which is approved for certified-organic farms, or SeaCom PGR Seaweed Concentrate (0-4-4).
Can We Use Sugar Water For Dying Plants? Although it is not considered a fertilizer, you can use sugar if your plants aren't doing so well. Sugar water in plants can help the microorganisms in the soil break down all the nutrients. It is vastly not recommended, though, to use just the sugar as plant food to save them.