To successfully sharpen your chainsaw, you need to guide the file as you work. Hold the handle firmly with one hand and with the other hand guiding the end, move the file in forward strokes along the tooth face.
Before sharpening, make sure the chainsaw has been turned off and cooled for at least 30 minutes. Secure the guide bar in a vice to keep the saw from moving around while you sharpen the chain. A workbench or other vice would be ideal for the task.
Place the chainsaw on the ground. Place your right foot through the rear handle to steady the saw. Use your left hand to securely hold the handlebar. Use your right hand to engage the chain brake by pushing the handle forward (so the chain doesn't start moving until you're ready to start cutting).
Avoid sawing from the bottom up, i.e. with a “pushing chain”, because this can push the chainsaw back towards you. Don't use a chainsaw above shoulder height, instead keep it below waist level. Make sure that the tip of the guide bar does not hit the ground or objects such as branches, the trunk, tools, etc.
However, if the chainsaw cuts to one side, then as we said, the problem is uneven wear. It may be due to the fact that the chain cuts at an angle, is badly sharpened, incorrectly tensioned, or not sufficiently lubricated.
Branches under tension should be cut from the bottom in an upwards direction to avoid binding the chainsaw.
Start with the master tooth and place the file in the tooth so that it can be guided along the tooth while applying pressure from the inside outwards. Always file at a 90-degree angle to the guide rail. The file should only sharpen on the forward stroke – lift the file off for the backstroke.
Most pros would agree that pulling the blade edge across the whetstone produces the best results. Not only will it bring the knife to its sharpest but it's also a much more effective way to remove chips and imperfections from the blade.
This may be caused by one of the following issues: The chain is dull or damaged; make sure that the chain is correctly sharpened. If you need to replace the chainsaw chain, use the correct one. The filing is incorrect; make sure that you use the right file when sharpening the chainsaw chain.
The right sharpening angle depends on the saw chain and the wood that you want to cut. The sharpening angle will generally be between 25° and 35° – the harder the wood, the greater the angle. To maintain the correct angle, we recommend that you use a sharpening grid or a filing gauge as an aid.
A chainsaw chain can be sharpened up to 10 times, sometimes more, before the entire chain needs replacing. It's mostly dependent on two things; the amount of wear your chain incurs and the amount of metal removed every time you sharpen. Different materials can have a harder impact on the chainsaw chain.
If your chainsaw isn't cutting straight, the cutter teeth should be examined first as uneven cutter teeth cause angled cuts. If the problem isn't the cutter teeth, the chain will guide you to the problem area on the chainsaw. Most of the time, this problem can be solved with a maintenance service.
Kickbacks occur when a saw seizes the stock and hurls it back at the operator. This can happen when the stock twists and binds against the side of the blades or is caught in the teeth. A blade that is not shvarpened, or that is set at an incorrect height, can cause kickbacks.
Chain Not Cutting
If the chain is sharp, but doesn't feel like it is cutting then the depth gauges or rakers need to be lowered. This is the “shark fin” shape directly in front of each cutting tooth. It's purpose is to limit how deep the cutting tooth dives into the wood.
The chain on the chainsaw will get dull fast if it comes into contact with sand, dirt, rocks and nails. Make sure to avoid all these hazards when using the chainsaw. If you do not, the lifetime of the equipment will be affected. For dirty conditions, you should use a specific type of saw chain.
Your chainsaw can also shut down when turned sideways due to leakage or because the fuel lines need to be reset. In this case, please contact your local authorised dealer.
This is most commonly a result of a dull chain and too much pressure on the bar and chain when trying to make the chainsaw cut. This could also be due to a lack of bar and chain oil (empty tank, restricted oil hole) or an inferior type of oil that is being slung off the chain and has no lubricating effect.
The Cross-cutting Technique
To stop your chainsaw from getting stuck, make a cut on top of the log or tree that's preferably one-third of the log's diameter. Use your chainsaw to cut from the underside until you meet the initial top cut. Always stand on the side when cross-cutting to prevent injury.