Remove the inner door panel. Using a pin probe and a schematic, check for the presence of 12 VDC at the motor when you push the buttom. If you have voltage, the motor itself is dead. If not, check voltage at the appropriate “hot” wire at the button on the driver's door.
Also, rotate the rotor part of the motor, and see if it spins freely. If it feels notchie, then it's bad or getting bad, although I have motors that are notchie and they run decently. The other case when the motor is bad, is when the magnets in the rotor have moved out of position or completely fallen off.
Symptoms of a failing motor include sluggish window movement or complete immobility. The window regulator is the mechanical component that facilitates the up-and-down movement of the window. If the regulator becomes damaged or worn, it can impede the window's operation, causing it to get stuck or move unevenly.
Generally most systems have only 1 fuse for the entire power windows so with only 1 window not working, I do not suspect a fuse and instead a faulty window motor or window switch.
When your electric motor fails to start, begin by checking the motor and the load are turning freely. Ensure the load does not require more power than the motor can deliver. If the motor is being operated for the first time, ensure the wiring is correct. Next, check the motor circuit.
Cost is usually a big deciding factor. Repairing an electric motor can sometimes be more cost-effective, particularly if the motor is relatively new and the issue is minor. However, if the motor has been through multiple repairs, you should consider the cumulative costs of these repairs against the cost of a new motor.
If only one window stops working, the problem could be a bad relay, fuse issue, bad motor, or the power window switch has failed. The most common reason for one window to stop working is the switch, so this should be looked at by a professional mechanic to have your power window switch replaced.
If you have identified the motor as the culprit, replacing it is fairly straight forward: after disconnecting the motor from the window and regulator, simply insert a new motor where the old one was and you're good to go!
Blown Fuse or Circuit Issue
Electric windows rely on your vehicle's electrical system, which means a blown fuse or a problem in the wiring can stop them from working entirely. This should be one of the first things you check if your window suddenly stops functioning as it should.
How do you know if it's the window regulator or the motor? If the window glass is going up crooked, sags into the door when it's not being used, or it has fallen, it's a window regulator issue. If it's an issue of movement, then the window motor is the usual suspect.
The average time to replace a power window motor is 2.1 hours. You should expect to pay $120-$150 for labor plus the cost of the motor itself. It can usually bring the entire job anywhere from $200 to $300, depending on the make and model.
Stand at the end of the open door and place one palm on the outside of the window and the other palm facing it on the inside of the window. Pressing the glass firmly between your palms, slowly move your hands up to raise the window.
Winding insulation breakdown and bearing wear are the two most common causes of motor failure, but those conditions arise for many different reasons.
When a capacitor short-circuits, the winding in the motor may burn out. When a capacitor deteriorates or opens, the motor has poor starting torque. Poor starting torque may prevent the motor from starting, which will usually trip the overloads.
It's possible for a DIYer to replace a window motor, yes. It takes common tools and some time, but it's not the most complicated repair on a vehicle. Can a power window motor be repaired? Most power window motors are sealed units.
Listen for motor sounds – Press the window button and listen for a clicking or whirring sound inside the door. If you hear the motor but the window doesn't move, the regulator may be damaged. If there's no sound at all, the motor could be burned out or disconnected.