If you really need the pre conditioner then I'd say yes you need it again. Walnut typically stains quite even though. Dont think you would really need a preconditioner for walnut.
On oak and walnut, it depends. A pre-stain conditioner can limit absorption and therefore the shade of the stain - it may not be as dark. Pre-stain conditioning will even out the color tone across the piece, and this may or may not be desirable, i.e. for a more rustic look don't condition.
I know conditioning is an extra step that may just seem like a hassle, but depending on the longevity of the project, it's absolutely worth it. Since wood pores are irregular, a conditioner can be used to reduce the likelihood of blotchiness from the staining process. This is especially true of soft or porous woods.
Wood conditioner is not necessary. You can stain perfectly fine without it. However, as you will see with my test pieces below, using a pre stain conditioner results in smoother finishes, especially when using dark wood stain colors on light, soft woods.
Walnut wood has a relatively open grain structure, which means it can absorb more stain than closed-grain woods like maple or cherry. This makes it important to use a pre-stain conditioner before applying any type of stain to prevent blotchiness or uneven coloration.
All walnut pieces need a good regular dusting. It's best to avoid commercial cleaners. These can leave residue on lacquered wood or damage oil and wax finishes. Oil finished furniture does best with the application of natural linseed oil once a year.
So, an oil-based stain should use an oil-based conditioner. It's also recommended to use the same brand for both. To apply the conditioner and stain, I don't follow the exact instructions on the can. Using a rag, dip it into the conditioner and apply it onto the wood in the same direction as the wood grain.
Some woodworkers claim that brush-on pre-stain conditioners are necessary whenever using brush-on or rub-on stains with certain woods, but that gel stains are much less prone to splotching and can be used without the pre-stain conditioning.
Apply stain over Wood Conditioner after 8 hours of dry time, or 24 hours if applying water-based stains. If the stain is applied before 8 hours, a darker color may result with less uniformity control. Ideal for use on soft woods which are being stained with or adjacent to hardwoods.
No mineral spirits are not a good conditioner for wood. Solvents in general will dry wood out and break down any oils that are in the wood. This leads to decay of the wood.
The kernel of a young, only torn walnut has a light color, after lying for several days, the kernel it darkens a little. This is a natural and normal process. After drying, the kernel takes on its permanent color.
The best finish for walnut is a clear one. Several coats of Danish oil provide clarity. For protection, add a compatible clear topcoat.
Minwax® Water-Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner penetrates the grain of the wood to promote uniform acceptance of water-based wood stains and helps control the effect of grain raising on both soft and hard woods.
A sanding sealer is not the same as a wood conditioner. Whereas a wood conditioner is a pre-stain treatment that reduces blotchiness when staining, a sanding sealer is applied only to bare wood that is not going to be stained.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
To properly prep bare wood, first sand with 120-grit sandpaper to open the grain of the wood. Wipe the dust away, and then sand again with 120 grit. Next I wipe the dust away and then sometimes wipe the wood with a damp cloth to raise the fibers.
Walnut trees thrive in fertile, deep, well-drained soil. They begin to bear fruit four to i ve years after being planted and can continue to grow and bear fruit for a century or more. Walnuts are harvested using mechanical shakers that shake the nut to the ground during harvest time in September through November.
Species such as maple and walnut dry at an intermediate rate, ie a 1” walnut board air dried in the south in the summer time will dry in about 120 days, and species such as oak, mesquite, and hickory dry very slowly (ie 1” per year).
Walnut oil hardens into a food-safe, satin finish for bowls, untreated butcher block, utensils, and other natural wood products. It is a slow-drying oil that will cure faster in a warmer environment, although room temperature is typically best.