Removing old stain isn't always necessary, but it depends on the condition and type of the previous stain. Water-Based vs. Oil-Based: Water-based stains sit on the surface and may need to be removed if peeling. Oil-based stains penetrate the wood and can be reapplied without full removal.
Yes, this is the basis of refinishing furniture. Any time a piece is refinished the old finish and stain must be removed. The technical aspects of the process are probably of less concern to you than the practical ones so here is what you do. Chemical removal of the old stain is much easier and faster than sanding.
You can only apply a dark stain over a light stain, not the other way around. If you want to go lighter on an existing finish, you will have to strip the furniture, unfortunately. The furniture must be in good condition. It cannot have water damage or peeling/cracking on the surface.
Can you stain over old stain without stripping or sanding wood furniture? Yes, you can! You'll need a quality gel stain, like Old Masters or General Finishes gel stain. You can find the full steps on my channel.
Clean it, scuff sand it well, wipe all dust away thoroughly and then use gel stain. Go very thin and layer until desired color reached.
Always prepare the wood with a light sanding.
Apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to ensure an even stain color (see Wood Preparation for other tips).
Yes! But you must follow ONE simple rule to ensure the best possible finish: the underlying finish must be absolutely dry.
Using wood stripper, bleach, and sandpaper is the most effective way to remove stain from wood.
If your existing deck stain is: Light: Apply a similar or darker stain color without additional preparation required. Dark: This will be hard to 'cover' with a lighter semi-transparent color, as the old/dark color will come through. If you want to lighten up the color of a dark deck, consider a lighter solid stain.
Re-Stain the Wood
Use a paintbrush or foam brush to apply a thin, even coat of stain. Wipe off any excess stain after a few minutes to prevent further blotchiness. Allow the stain to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.
PolyShades® will work over stained wood (meaning it does not have a clear protective finish) or wood top-coated with a polyurethane-based finish. Proper surface preparation is necessary to ensure adhesion, so make sure you follow preparation tips provided in this Guide.
Apply a Liquid Deglosser
This product helps you prepare the surface for new stain or paint without the need to strip or sand. Wipe it on with a cloth, and it removes the glossy top layer, making the surface ready for refinishing.
In addition, you can try a second coat of stain to see if it deepens the color. Sometimes, the wet stain is exactly the color that you're looking for, but when the stain dries, it goes dull. Often, applying the clear protective finish will make the stain color-rich again.
Restaining cabinets are a popular choice for homeowners who want to update their space while keeping their well-built cabinetry. It involves stripping the old finish with a varnish, preparing the wood, and applying new stains to achieve the desired look.
If you want a long-lasting finish on your deck staining, it is recommended to do the following: Strip off any old stain with a wood stripper and pressure wash. Clean and light-sand the surface to ensure you have removed any possible elements or contaminants.
Natural Oils:
“These stains last longer and are more durable than unsealed water-based stains because there is no film on the wood to chip or fail,” according to the Green Home Guide, Tung oil is the optimal penetrating oil because it can penetrate, harden and still remain somewhat flexible.
Often when people restain timber, the old Stain is either sanded away, is already flaking off, or can be restained over. While you can restain a deck over an existing stain without sanding or removing the existing peeling product, this isn't always recommended and can leave your deck looking a little worse for wear.
Gloss oil-based varnish, polyurethane and Danish oil can last 10 or 20 years, though satin finishes and stains may fail sooner as pigments and flattening agents disable the driers. Water-based coatings and paints can also be viable longer than three years. Shellac, though, can go bad in under a year.
Like regular stain, solid stain is designed to change the colour of a surface while still allowing the texture of the wood to show through. Solid stain is in the middle ground between paint and regular or semi-transparent stain in that it seeps into wood more than paint, but not as much as regular stain.
If you sand in between coats of stain, you risk breaking the color and damaging the stain. Instead, you should sand the raw wood before applying a stain. Take a look at our recommended best practices for sanding to ensure that your wood piece is ready for staining.
Mineral spirits, also called paint thinner or mineral turpentine, prepare wood surfaces by gently cleaning the top layer. The liquid doesn't make the wood swell, thus damaging it or changing its size, but rather wipes off any stains, especially oil. It also dries quickly when rubbed over a wooden surface.
– Existing Finish: If the wood has an existing finish that needs to be removed, stripping is typically the preferred method. – Surface Imperfections: If the wood has surface imperfections, scratches, or uneven areas, sanding is more appropriate.
Choosing water-based stains is more eco-friendly and less hazardous to your health than oil-based options, as they contain fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
Arm-R-Seal is a thin urethane topcoat; the flatting agents used to create flatter sheens quickly settle to the bottom of the can and need to be redistributed often.
Longer Drying Time
One of the most significant drawbacks of oil-based stains is their extended drying time. Unlike acrylic stains that can dry within an hour, oil stains can take anywhere from 12 to 24 hours to dry completely.