So, not only is shocking a saltwater pool okay, but it's actually important to your pool's health. Shocking is the process in which you overload your pool with chlorine (3-5 times the normal amount) to improve your pool's cleanliness and kill off organic matter.
Shock your pool once a week with Salinity Surge Shock or Salinity Oxidizing Shock. Pool shock works as an added defense against bacteria and contaminants. With Oxidizing shock, you can use your pool after just 15 minutes!
Yes, a salt water pool has a reduced cost of operation as compared to a traditional chlorinated pool. This cost savings is primarily because chlorine is generated from salt and there is no need to buy chlorine. Additionally, salt water pools require fewer chemicals to keep the water clean and clear.
The only time that it is important not to add salt is in the first 30 days after plaster is applied. Otherwise it is fine to go ahead and add salt. Run the pump for 24 hours after adding salt and turn off the SWG for those 24 hours.
This increases the salt content in the body, raising the blood pressure of patients with salt-related blood pressure and may cause heart attacks, ”said Meriç, adding that although swimming regularly has health benefits in all aspects, this is not true for some people.
Wait until the shock process is complete, then put in the salt. It'll dissolve right away and be ready for the SWG by the time you get ready to use it.
Most recommend an ideal pH of 7.4–7.6 (7.2–7.8 acceptable), Total Alkalinity between 80–120 ppm, and Calcium Hardness around 200–400 ppm. Use water balancers to adjust your water into the proper ranges. Cyanuric Acid levels are very important for saltwater chlorinators.
Turn down the salt cell system. If you've reached the recommended chlorine level for your pool, the shock should last several days, so you can turn down your saltwater pool system—also called salt chlorinators or chlorine generators —for a while.
While green algae are endemic in salt water pools, they are the easiest to kill. Green algae tend to grow during summers when the temperatures can get high. They float freely in the pool, making the water green. You might even see them growing on the bottom of the pool, on the walls, or in the crevices.
The slimy feel on your pool walls is an early indication of algae growth. To stop algae growth in its tracks, clean the pool filter first. Before adding any chemicals to the pool, make sure you have a clean filter. Cartridge, sand or diatomaceous earth filters all have their own backwashing methods for cleaning.
Insufficient chlorine in your pool
When you add a bag of salt into the water sodium chloride dissolves and splits into two separate parts – sodium and chloride ions. Chloride won't kill algae, it needs to be turned into chlorine to do this.
If using 6% liquid chlorine bleach, add 5 gallons per 10000 gallons. Add the Shock: With the filter system running, and the pH on the low side, 7.2-7.4, add the chlorine (granular or liquid) slowly to the pool, dispersing it around the pool edge, or broadcasting the pool shock over the surface.
To reach the initial salt level recommended by the salt system manufacturer (usually 2400-3200 ppm), you will need to add about 200 lbs of pure pool grade salt (NaCl), per 10,000 gallons of water. Salt stays in the water, you only need annual boosters, to replace salt lost to backwashing or splashout.
The answer really depends on the use conditions and how often you do maintenance on your pool. The safe answer is that they usually last for about five to seven years.
Again, you can use baking soda to raise it or muriatic acid to lower it. Cyanuric acid or CYA is the preferred stabilizer for salt water pools, and it should be at 70 to 80 ppm. Last but not least is calcium hardness. You should aim for 200 to 400 ppm of calcium to prevent scaling and corrosion.
3400 is the recomended high limit, but the readings on the panel are notoriously inaccurate. Generally it's better to have the level on the high side than low, so 3800 should be fine.
Highly excessive salinity levels (over 6,000 ppm) will cause corrosion damage to metallic equipment, such as ladders and handrails. This is true because salt doesn't wear out, break down or evaporate; Turn the pump on and run until you reach the desired water level.
Unlike traditional chlorine pools, which require frequent chemical adjustments, saltwater pools require minimal maintenance and can work for extended periods without modification. This means significantly less time spent maintaining your pool.
A saltwater pool is an alternative to a traditional chlorine pool. Although you don't add chlorine tablets to a saltwater pool, it does still contain chlorine. It just has a smaller amount that's generated through the filter system. A saltwater pool contains 10 times less salt than the ocean.
Light Green or Teal Pool Water:
In this case, you should double shock your swimming pool water. To double shock, you will need to add 2 pounds for every 10,000 gallons of water. For instance, if you pool is 20,000 gallons, you will add 4 pounds of shock.
As shocking has a tendency to push metals out of solution and salt (even when labeled as pure) can contain trace amounts of metals, it is recommended that you add salt at a different time from shocking. Have your PH and ALK within range when adding salt, and brush until it is completely dissolved.
Sometimes the temperature or flow sensors in the salt generator system can be faulty too, which will cause the salt cell to shut off or reduce the chlorine output. This can also cause a cloudy saltwater pool.
Should the green be due to pollen, there may be little to do in the way of minimizing the discoloration short of erecting a building around the pool. Fortunately, assuming there are no allergies to the pollen, it is safe to swim in a pool with that as the cause for green water.
Lower pH by adding muriatic acid or sodium disulfide to the water, and raise it by adding baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) or soda ash (sodium carbonate). Check the total alkalinity of the pool water before raising pH. If it's near the acceptable range of 80 to 120 ppm, use soda ash.
Shocking is the process in which you overload your pool with chlorine (3-5 times the normal amount) to improve your pool's cleanliness and kill off organic matter. Many pool experts choose to use granular pool shock in saltwater systems as it works best and is easy to use.