At the very least, pocket doors do require thicker walls. This means an offset of more than 4 inches (100mm) to accommodate doors that have a usual thickness of 2 inches, with a bigger gap required for thicker door choices.
Check That You Have Enough Space
The existing wall should also be thicker than 4 inches, as the standard pocket door thickness is about 2 inches. Based on these measurements, you will be able to choose the right pocket door kit for your home.
The reasoning is a 2x4 wall really has no room for framing other than a 1x2 or 1x4. These thin framing members just don't have enough rigidity so the opening can be flimsy. This is most noticeable around the pocket opening where the door sits.
The pocket door system can be installed against the existing wall. This is done by creating a false stud wall along the side of your existing one with a space for the frame, the Rocket Pocket is only 100mm wide including plasterboard so you will not lose lots of space in the room.
Pocket doors are a great solution for smaller spaces that lack the wall space for a full swing door. This makes them perfect for small bathrooms, closets and connecting those two areas, for example between a master bath and the walk-in closet.
During a new construction, pocket doors will cost between $500 and $1,000. As part of a remodeling project, their cost will be in the $1,000 to $3,500 range. These prices reflect both parts and labor. These doors hide inside a wall cavity instead of swinging out from a hinge.
To hang a pocket door, you need a rough opening that is twice as wide as the door itself. This means taking down the old swinging door, removing the jamb and disassembling the wall framing. You'll also need to remove drywall and relocate any electrical wires that are in the way.
As long as the measurement is correct for the pocket opening, the door is the right thickness, and the door hasn't been pre-drilled for a standard door lockset or hinges, you can use any kind of door for a pocket door.
A standard sliding pocket door has the same sizes as a corresponding hinged door. It typically measures 30" or 36" in width and 80" in height. It is also possible to build customized solutions having very large or very small passage sizes.
The open doorframe should be twice the width of the intended door slab, plus 1 inch. So, the rough opening for a 30-inch door slab should be 61 inches. Height should be the vertical length of the door slab, plus the thickness of the door track and desired clearance (about 1 inch, though product dimensions vary).
Determining what size to make rough openings for single pocket door framing is a simple process. Almost all hardware manufacturers state in their instructions, width of the rough opening is two times that of the door plus one inch and the height is seven feet one inch.
If you simply want to replace a pocket door or remove it in order to repair it, you don't have to tear into the drywall! That's great news. All you have to do is lift the door off the sliding track. In order to do that, you have to remove the trim around the door.
Double the width of the desired door, or pair of doors, to determine the wall space that's needed to install the pocket door frame. For example, 48 inches is needed to install the frame for a 24-inch pocket door, and 64 inches is need to install the frame for a 32-inch pocket door.
Pocket doors are a good option for smaller rooms that may not have space for a full-swing door. They're perfect for closets, connecting two spaces (for example between an en suite and a walk-in closet, and small bedrooms where floor space counts.
Pocket doors can either be solid or hollow core. It's just that experts recommend the use of solid doors since they are more durable, provide better insulation and noise reduction, and generally offer higher quality than hollow core doors.
A pocket door differs from a standard hinged door that opens by swinging back and forth. Instead, a pocket door slides, via rollers on an overhead track, into a “pocket” in the wall on either side of it. When it's fully open, the pocket door completely disappears.
To install a pocket door in an existing wall, you have to remove drywall, and it's easier to uncover the entire wall instead of trying to work in a limited opening. That way, you can remove entire studs instead of cutting them and reroute wires as needed.
Many people falsely believe that you cannot have any wiring, electrical outlets, or electrical switches in the pocket wall – but we have a nifty trick! We just build the wall a little thicker so that there's room for electrical wiring, switches, and outlets.
Pocket doors were popular in the late 1800s, especially in Victorian houses. They had a resurgence of popularity in the 1950s. But because pocket doors from the past ran along raised tracks on the floor, the tracks were a tripping hazard, so builders and homeowners avoided pocket doors when possible.
Pocket door hardware kits are usually available for doors 1-1/8 inches to 1-3/4 inches thick by 6 feet, 8 inches high. Look for a high-quality pocket door frame with durable hardware.
Yes, you can lock pocket doors to secure specific places in your house. Pocket doors can have a lock on one or both sides. If you want to secure your property, you can choose a pocket door lock with a key. The locks may either be a round or square lock.
While pocket doors slide into the wall completely out of sight barn doors slide along the outside of the wall so they are constantly visible.
Pocket doors that are 4 feet wide would require a header that spans the opening of 8 feet, plus another 4 feet on each side where the doors tuck away. It's 16 feet long, heavy, unwieldy and often constructed of two 2-by-10s or more depending on the load above.