If the damage to walls is small and contained or the paint is less than a year old, you should be able to just touch up the small area rather than repainting the whole wall. Small flaws include: Nicks, scratches, dings, chips, scuffs, or marks. Flaws that are not highly visible.
You can yes. For small spots I use a brush to stipple the texture which saves getting a roller set up. Make sure to wipe the wall down first.
Touching up can really only be done when the paint is still tacky. Other than that you'll want to paint the whole wall. If it's not a well lit area or doesn't have sun or direct light on it, you can sometimes get away with ``touching up'' depending on the color and how old the paint was on the wall.
You can always try touching up the damaged spots on the wall and see if it looks good enough. If not, then you can go ahead and completely repaint. The amount of effort to retouch is fairly minimal, especially compared to doing the whole wall.
Dilute your paint and grab a brush or roller (use whatever was used to apply the previous coat of paint) and lightly apply a touch-up coat of paint, feathering it and blending it out into the original painted area so that there are no hard touch-up lines.
Feathering with a brush will produce a flat "halo" (outline) around the touch-up. Feathering with a synthetic roller cover will aid in blending slight differences in color and sheen without producing a noticeable halo.
Brush marks are caused by strokes that leave the paint with a rough texture and visible brush strokes. The rough texture and visible brush strokes can be easily covered in a second coat of paint by using a slightly different technique than you used for your first coat.
First apply a first layer on the damage to be repaired, extending it slightly to the adjacent part or parts. Wait for it to evaporate, and apply a second layer covering the entire part to repair. Then, apply a layer of colour to the adjacent parts, blending obliquely from the part to repair to the opposite end.
As small as 2 feet: Bump-outs may extend as far as 10 to 15 feet from the house, but they can also be tiny pop-outs that are no deeper than 2 feet. Cantilevers: Small bump-outs often are cantilevered (unsupported by posts) from the house. This is typically limited to about 2 feet in depth.
Yes you can paint over old paints. I'm assuming your walls are 'normal', IE not crumbling apart, peeling or flaking, and you just want to repaint your existing wall paint in a new colour, or just for a refresh, and the paint on there right now is just 'standard high street paint'.
Perfect for low ceiling rooms
While half-painted walls are a great idea for rooms with high ceilings – they save a lot of trouble on painting strong colours right to the top for a start! – they're particularly effective for rooms with low ceilings, especially common in more modern houses and flats.
Even the smallest touch-up can prove to be difficult to blend as well. While touch-up paint can provide a quick and easy fix, painting the whole wall will ensure you get a flawless finish that will last longer and provide more value to your biggest investment.
Foam brushes can be quite effective for touch-ups on intricate surfaces. We find their soft, malleable structure allows for a careful application, especially when dealing with tight spaces or detailed work. Related Articles: Best Paint Brush Set.
Always apply a second topcoat to make sure you achieve the look you want. Without this second coat, any subsequent touch-up will be noticeable and affect the sheen or gloss you want to achieve. Poor color hiding can be mistaken for a problem with touch-up.
Patchy paint can result if paint has been applied unevenly. Patchy paint can be down to a variation in surface absorption. Walls might appear patchy if they have variation in texture. Using paint that is not fully mixed can cause a patchy appearance.
Without primer, the touched-up spot will stand out, and it'll look a right mess. The trick is to blend the new paint with the original surface. Priming will also prep your surface for paint and seal any stains - especially those that wouldn't come off.
Not Fully Loading the Roller
The roller needs to be fully loaded with paint to the core, otherwise you'll get air bubbles on your wall, resulting in “paint acne.” To avoid this mistake, roll back and forth on the roller tray until all bubbles are gone and the roller feels heavy.
How to fix uneven or blotchy paint: No matter how many additional coats of paint you add, this problem likely requires going back to the drawing board. If you run into uneven or blotchy paint, the best thing to do is start over.
Lightly sand the troublesome area with 150-grit sandpaper, then tack the walls. That's painter lingo for “Wipe it with a cloth to get rid of dust.” (Easier than the lingo makes it sound!) Then re-paint the area, maintaining a wet edge—meaning, don't let the paint dry until you finish the wall.
Flat or matte finishes tend to touch up better: The flatter the finish, the easier to touch up; the glossier the finish, the more challenging. The better quality your paint is, the easier your touch-up is going to be.
Dip your roller lightly into the paint. It should cover less than half of the roller. Roll it back and forth on the ramp to distribute it evenly; this is how to stop patchy paint when using a roller.