Step 2: Mix fast-setting joint compound Make sure you use a quick setting
The hack way (I used it in a corner in a bathroom a couple years ago and it's still holding up) is to use some glue (wood glue or white PVA) and stick it back down. You can lift up the tape gently with a putty knife and then paint the glue behind using an artist brush to put glue in place.
I would not recommend trying to put any mud over the tape during the taping process. The goal is to get the tape on the wall, let it dry and shrink, and then start mudding.
Ya, if there are air bubbles behind the tape (places the tape isn't stuck) they must be cut out. No amount of mud over top of them will make them go away. If there isn't any bubbled up tape - you just need to feather the joint out further with more mud.
The drywall compound you use when you tape the seams should be just fine to paint over.
Yes! Here's How. Stepping into the world of home renovation can often feel like navigating a labyrinth with a blindfold on—especially when it comes to the mysteries of drywall mud over paint. It's a topic that might sound as dry as, well, drywall itself, but fear not!
The most common is poor application, but there are a few other reasons that could be responsible as well. The simplest way to deal with this issue is to re-tape the area where the tape is peeling away. This can be done with self-adhesive mesh drywall tape.
DON'T overlap drywall tape
Make sure to smooth the mud with a knife and then apply tape over the mud.
The short answer is "no". If you want a professional looking paint job that adheres to your local building codes, is long-lasting, durable, and beautiful, you'll need to make sure your drywall is mudded, sanded, and primed before painting it. Probably the most important reason for mudding is safety.
Estimated Drying Times by Mud Type
Pre-Mixed Joint Compound: Typically, pre-mixed joint compound takes about 24 hours for the first coat to dry, and an additional 24 hours for each subsequent coat. In ideal conditions, it can be ready for sanding and painting within 48 hours.
The bubbles come from a loose installment. Either there wasn't a good bond, or you may have pushed too much mud out from behind it when you taped. Sometimes, you won't see bubbles immediately. They could appear after you get the tape wet again.
To repair with sanding only, remove the excess compound from bulges and finish with touch-up paint. For full drywall repair, cut a square around the damaged area, remove the drywall, measure and cut a new piece to fit the hole, secure it, and finish with joint compound, sanding, and spray texture primer and paint.
Presuming you have already taped the wall, use a 6″, 8″ or 10″ knife to spread mud from a pan. A better way is with a drywall box, but it takes far more skill than you can muster. Old timers liked to use a hawk and trowel, but that is seldom seen unless they are doing plaster work.
If the drywall tape shows under the mud, the coating is too thin. Use three layers: tape coat, filler coat, and final coat. Covering the tape comes only with the final coat or coats. If your initial final coat doesn't cover the tape, apply more coats, but keep them thin.
Keep a bucket of water nearby and quickly run each piece of tape through it before applying the tape to the wall.
The Painting Pros always does proper surface prep, including repairing drywall before we apply any paint. That means we routinely fill cracks, repair holes, caulk edges, and re-tape seams.
If you use mesh tape, setting compound (“Quick Set”) is the best drywall mud – actually, the only mud – to use. If you use paper tape and need lots of time to work, or you anticipate needing to do plenty of sanding (like beginners), pre-mixed mud is your best drywall mud.
If you notice the air bubbles present throughout, remove the tape instead of trying to cover it up. Make sure the compound has been properly mixed. If it's too thick, add some water so that it's easier to spread evenly. Apply a layer of the drywall compound on the section where you just removed the tape.