You may plant several cuttings to each container. Then, grow your cuttings indoors as houseplants through the cold winter months. You can plant them again outside when soil and outdoor temperatures rise enough to accommodate each individual plant.
Most cuttings taken in spring will be flowering in their first summer. Those taken in late summer will be overwintering under glass and be ready to harden off during May. One of the keys to overwintering rooted cuttings under glass is to keep them on the dry side in bright frost-free conditions of around 7°C (45°F).
While it's true that not all houseplants can be propagated in this way, there are many that can. Popular houseplants that grow from cuttings: Schefflera. Begonia.
Insert the cuttings into the compost to just below the lowest set of remaining leaves and cover with a clear plastic bag, so they stay moist. Keep the compost damp, but remove excess moisture, if necessary; too much, and you will get mould. You will know the plant is rooting well when you see new leaves appearing.
You can propagate houseplants at any time of year. This being said, the best time to do it is during their growing season – which is typically spring-summer. They will grow more slowly during the dormant months of autumn-winter.
It will slow transpiration while the necessary components are used at the root sites to build a new root structure. Keep the atmosphere around the cutting warm (not hot), keep the humidity relatively high (>90%), and keep the root zone temperature warm (at about 25°C).
Media is usually kept at 72-77° F while air temperature is maintained at 68-73° F. If bottom heat is not used, air temperature should be maintained between 77 and 80° F. Maintaining air temperatures lower than medium temperatures retards shoot growth while promoting root development. Excessive heat can damage cuttings.
Cuttings use energy to form new roots. If the cutting has leaves, most of the energy comes from photosynthesis. Expose these cuttings to bright light, but not direct sunlight, during the rooting period. If you use hardwood cuttings that have no leaves, the energy will come from reserves stored in the woody stem.
Adequate ventilation is also required to avoid disease problems. The plastic covering should be placed such that air can flow freely around the cuttings as they root. Temperature: For best results, maintain day temperatures at 70 degrees F.
It is best to harvest cuttings in early spring and plant immediately but if this is not possible, cuttings can be stored safely for about 4 months. Store cuttings in a cool, dark, and moist place. Do NOT store in a wet area as this will promote root growth and weaken the cutting.
Most softwood cuttings are taken in spring and early summer, from the tender new growth of the season. If potted by mid-summer they will develop sufficient roots to survive the winter, otherwise pot up in the following spring.
With the exception of succulents, most cuttings need high humidity in order to grow properly. Until cuttings develop roots, they are very susceptible to drying out. If you don't have a bright area with high humidity, you can create a humid environment around the cutting by placing a clear plastic bag over it.
The sooner you can get your cuttings into a more normal environment with air flow and no dome, the better off they'll be. After about a week, remove the dome and monitor your cuttings to see if they begin to wilt. If they do, they're not ready to go dome-less, so try again in 1-2 days.
The reason cuttings rot is that over time, the oxygen level of the water drops unless it's moving or oxygen is added. Not only do plants need oxygen in order to grow roots (and, indeed everything else), but the bacteria that cause rotting thrive in low-oxygen environments.
Cuttings are more difficult to obtain if you do not take them off a mother plant, because you need to know someone who grows a plant successfully. In addition, often less different types of plant varieties are available. The risk of cuttings carrying diseases and insects is present.
Some plants will root in water, but cuttings will develop a better root system when rooted in a soil-less potting mix. Sand or perlite can also be used, especially for cuttings that need good drainage and may rot if kept too wet.
In general, Pilarchik notes, most cuttings should be about four inches long; two inches of the stem should be submerged in the water. Keep your cuttings indoors while they establish, as "the regulated temperature of a home will prevent stress and allow them to focus on rooting," adds Pilarchik.
A typical misting frequency during sticking (Stage 1) and callusing (Stage 2) of vegetative cutting propagation is to initially mist for 5–8 seconds every 5–10 minutes over 24-hour period. After three to four days, reduce mist to 3–5 seconds every 10–20 minutes during the day, and less frequently at night.
Using sickly plants or flowering shoots
Cuttings are very delicate and vulnerable so pests, disease, the wrong growing conditions, too much water or too little water can all cause them to fail.
Warm growing medium temperatures accelerate cell division which leads to faster callusing, root initial development and subsequent root growth. It also speeds up the dry-down rate of the growing medium, which also helps encourage better rooting. The best way to warm the growing medium is through bottom heat.
The basic principle behind applying mist to vegetative cuttings is simple. Without roots, cuttings cannot adequately replace the water lost to the environment due to evaporation and transpiration mainly. To aid them along the beginning of their life journey we must replace this water loss with water applications.
Several cuttings may be placed together in one container. Be sure to add fresh water as needed until the cuttings are fully rooted. Rooting will generally occur in 3-4 weeks but some plants will take longer. When the roots are 1-2 inches long or longer the cutting is ready to be potted up.