Any gardening expert will tell you, (contrary to what you may believe) that pruning encourages new growth just when the plant is trying to go dormant and new growth doesn't have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures hit. Pruning at this time of year will severely weaken the plants.
Also, do not cut back hardy perennials like garden mums (Chrysanthemum spp.), anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), and Montauk daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum). Leave the foliage. It's important to protect the root crowns over winter.
Don't prune too late in northern regions.
In areas with cold winters, avoid pruning after the middle of August. If you prune too late, you may stimulate new growth that would not have time to grow thick, protective bark before the killing frosts of winter.
It's common to think that everything should be chopped down to the ground in the fall, but some perennials actually need their foliage to protect new shoots through the winter. Other varieties offer up important habitat for local wildlife and some perennials provide height and interest through the winter months.
To prevent the disease from returning the following year, we suggest cutting the plants back in the fall and removing any debris – no matter the variety! It will give your plants a clean start next season. *Destroy any foliage with symptoms of powdery mildew and disinfect pruners before trimming other plants.
Don't shear the branches of spring flowering shrubs (Forsythia, Lilac, New Mexico Privet, Spirea, Flowering Quince, and others). These shrubs produce flowers on last year's wood, so removing old growth will reduce or prevent flowering. These plants should be pruned immediately after they are done blooming.
No matter what type of shrub you have, fall pruning can stimulate late-season growth that may not have enough time to harden. This can weaken and damage the plant—especially if there's an early frost. Instead, wait until winter and trim bushes when the plant is in deep dormancy.
It's important to cut back foliage in the fall to protect flowering plants from disease and give them a clean start for regrowth as winter starts to turn into spring. However, there are some plants you can keep around through the winter since they benefit wildlife and still offer visual interest for your home.
What I do prune in late fall: Any perennials that have gone completely dormant and will have mushy foliage if I leave it through winter like hosta, tall garden phlox, brunnera, lilies, bleeding hearts, daylilies, Ligularia, catmint, bee balm, peonies and salvia.
"As soon as trees and shrubs go into dormancy, pruning can begin," he said. "And you can prune up to the time when buds begin to plump up." From mid-November to mid-March, you can shape and thin your deciduous plants in preparation for the spring season ahead.
Avoid pruning in fall.
Pruning cuts can stimulate new growth that, unfortunately, will be killed as temperatures drop to freezing. Trees and shrubs reduce their energy production as the growing season ends, so new growth in autumn will use a plant's stored energy reserves.
The best season to prune trees is while they are dormant, or generally between November and March. This means waiting for them to lose their foliage and cease growth, but before forming buds. For fruit trees such as the apple tree, prune in late winter.
Pruning Too Early
If you prune too early in the season, there's a good chance you'll snip the buds right off their branches, which means no flowers in the spring. Before you cut, do a little research, like with our pruning guide, or just wait to trim until the plant has finished blooming for the year.
Cutting back perennials in the fall is not only a great way to keep flowerbeds looking neat and tidy through winter, but it also aids greatly in keeping plants vibrant and blooming the following year. Removing spent foliage and blooms helps a plant focus on recharging it's roots and resources.
When to take cuttings. The best time to take softwood cuttings is from mid-spring to early summer. Hardwood cuttings are taken later in the year, from mid-autumn to mid-winter.
A good rule of thumb is that if the plant blooms on new growth, it can be pruned in winter, before the new season's growth begins and after the final bloom of the year. Be careful with spring-blooming shrubs—those usually can't be pruned in winter without damaging the flower buds and ruining the blooming season.
Many gardeners cut back their perennials much too soon. There are nuances specific to certain perennials that dictate whether it is better to cut them back in fall or spring, but the general rule I like to follow is to only cut back perennials that start looking bad in fall.
Some perennials, like hostas, peonies and daylilies, need to be pruned in fall to avoid winter damage. Plants like these should be pruned after the first few frosts in late fall or early winter. Other perennials like mums and coneflowers are better off being pruned in spring just before new growth comes in.
By dividing the plant when it is not flowering, all the plant's energy can go to root and leaf growth. Fall division should take place between early September in the uppermost Piedmont and mid- to late October on the coast. Allow at least four to six weeks before the ground freezes for the plants to become established.