The most common cause of low shower pressure is a blocked showerhead, as a result of limescale build-up. These blockages obstruct the water flow, leading to reduced pressure over time. Most showers are fitted with a filter, protecting the pipework from debris, but this can become partially blocked by scale.
Most low-flow showerheads have a rubber pressure-reducing valve (called a regulator) to maintain a lower pressure. You can increase the flow by simply taking it out. You could also consider enlarging the hole that allows water into your showerhead with a drill to increase the amount of water coming through.
Depending on your current flow rate, you may be able to increase the flow simply by removing the filter or restricting device or replacing the showerhead with a higher-flow model, such as increasing to a standard 2.5 GPM head. Before you change the showerhead, make sure that the new model is legal in your area.
Lower pressure could be more severe than you imagine, potentially involving serious problems like leaking or cracked water pipes and may require professional intervention before snowballing into a home plumbing disaster.
A fast drop in only one faucet means there's a problem with the faucet. Rapid low pressure affecting one area of the house may mean a corroded pipe issue. An abrupt water pressure drop affecting the whole house may mean a water main break (municipal water) or a well pump problem (well water).
Many modern shower heads are designed specifically to increase the pressure of the water coming out of the showerhead itself. So, while they can't increase the actual water pressure of the home, they do improve the showering experience.
For water conservation purposes, most plumbing codes require faucets and showering devices to not exceed a certain maximum flow rate. Removing the flow restrictors could cause these devices to no longer meet these codes.
A high pressure shower head maximizes the flow of water through the shower head for a powerful spray. Waterpik® shower head engineers design water passages to minimize flow restriction and optimize the shower force, and put every shower head design through more than 1,000 hours of testing.
Find the spigot closest to your source of water. Make sure all the taps and other water uses are turned off in your house. Now turn on the spigot and see how long it takes to fill the bucket. Dividing the number 60 by the time to fill the bucket will give you the gallons per minute number.
Flow restrictors essentially create a barrier to the flow, decreasing the available area for the flow to move through. This decreases the flow output and less gallons per minute are released by the pipe or hose. Slowing down the flow rate cuts down the total water consumption/usage happening per minute.
Once you've installed your shower head, switch on the cold water supply and allow the water to run for between 10 and 15 seconds. After this, do the same with the hot side. If you are performing a shower valve test with air, simply follow the same procedure.
Two big reasons: To help lower utility bills -- and to conserve water. According to the EPA, the average family could save 2,700 gallons per year by installing WaterSense labeled showerheads. Since these water savings will reduce demands on water heaters, they will also save energy.
Do All New Shower Heads Have Flow Restrictors? Not all new shower heads come with flow restrictors. While many brands focus on water and energy efficiency, it's not a universal feature. So, before you make a purchase, it's a good idea to check the specifications and ensure they fit your needs.
Different showerheads require different psi for effective flow. If your home doesn't have enough water pressure for the head you choose, water won't be able to flow with enough strength or consistency to be effective. Most shower heads need between 40 and 60 psi.
Adjust the Pressure-Reducing Valve
Protruding from the top of the valve is a threaded bolt. To raise pressure, loosen the bolt's locking nut, then turn the bolt clockwise. Use the pressure gauge to determine when you reach a water pressure around 50 PSI. Then, tighten the locknut to secure the valve.
Some of the first signs of a failing pressure regulator are a leaking water heater or commode. The water coming from a faucet may also exit with such force that splashing or water “hammering” may occur.
Water pressure problems could be as simple as faulty faucets and fixtures. If you're experiencing low pressure in a specific area, check for clogging or corrosion that could be slowing water flow.
It may be caused by debris such as dirt, sand, solidified oil and grease, food particles, or foreign objects. Pollutants can block pipes if they back up due to fractures in the water main. Mineral buildup clogs pipes over time and causes the water pressure to go down, as there's less space for water to travel through.
You can increase water pressure by loosening a locknut on the valve. Contact a well-pump technician: If your house is on a private well, poor water pressure could indicate a problem with the captive storage tank or the pump. It's best to have the well system serviced by a qualified well expert.
If there's an accumulation of sediments in your hot water tank, it can lower your water pressure. The presence of kinks in the flexible water pipes used in water heaters can result in low water pressure. If the shut-off valve isn't fully open, water pressure can drop.
Please keep in mind that all new faucets since 1994 are restricted to conserve water per EPA code mandates. Older faucets had no restrictions. Beyond intentional flow restriction, new installations can sometimes have reduced flow if the lines are not flushed prior to installation of aerators or shower heads.