Lath and plaster was a skilled craft and a time-consuming technique and the advent of cheaper, mass produced, pre-manufactured plasterboard meant lath and plaster largely fell out of favour by the 1930s and 1940s. Plasterboard was simply faster and less expensive to install.
In Canada and the United States, wood lath and plaster remained in use until the process was replaced by transitional methods followed by drywall (the North American term for plasterboard) in the mid-twentieth century.
There's no getting around the fact that lath and plaster requires more skill and time to install well. Plus, the entire process will cost more than hanging drywall. Difficult repairs. One of the benefits of drywall is how easy it is to take down and replace if it's damaged.
Lath and plaster is not a system that's used anymore. 99% of the time for your situation, drywall will be used when replacing a full wall. Plaster walls still do exist, but lath is not used as the base for it, ``blue board'' drywall is. So it's essentially a plaster skim coat over drywall.
The lifespan of lath and plaster can extend across several centuries, if the property it is applied to is well-kept and maintained. However, the finish may require some repair work in this time to keep it in its ideal condition.
Consider carefully whether it's really necessary and what you are achieving through its removal. Simple repairs and maintenance can easily be made to lath and plaster walls and ceilings, though you should always consult your local planning authority if your property is listed.
In older construction projects, typically pre-1980s, asbestos was incorporated into various building materials to enhance their strength and fireproofing capabilities. In lath and plaster walls specifically, asbestos fibers were often mixed into the plaster compound or used as reinforcement within the plaster layers.
Plaster is brittle by nature and will crack at its weakest point under vibration or through water ingress. This weak point is usually at the lugs that wrap around the laths. If this spreads across the ceiling even the horsehair can't support the weight and the ceiling, or sections of it, will sag and then may collapse.
It will cost more than $10,000 to drywall over the walls of a 2,000-square-foot home. Let's say you've researched replacing lath and plaster with drywall and are confident in your ability to do it. The average cost to have drywall installed in place of plaster, if done by a professional is $1,020 to $2,800.
The plaster uses the lath for a base until it can dry and harden, forming the visible part of the wall. As long as you can find the studs under the plaster, you can hang drywall by screwing the sheets to these studs. Be sure to use screws that are long enough to go through the drywall and plaster to reach the studs.
Lath and plaster walls have an irregular surface that are a problem for stud finders. As a result, your stud finder can show a false positive (a stud indication when it is actually not a stud) when it finds an increase in density, even if it is just a glob of plaster.
To put it simply: yes, it can. Mold can grow on any surface that its roots can settle into. In most cases, plaster surfaces on walls do not offer enough nutrients for the mold to grow well. It can grow, though.
A gravity toggle is a strong fixing for plasterboard or lath-and-plaster walls. Basically, it's a screw with a swinging metal bar (toggle) attached. When you insert it, the toggle swings down and grips the back of the wall. The toggle is lost in the cavity if you remove the screw.
Plaster: A Traditional Approach
Plaster walls are harder and more durable than drywall, but they are also more expensive to install. In older homes, plaster was typically applied in three coats over wood or metal lath. Modern plastering methods often involve a single coat over a special drywall called a blue board.
Unfortunately, there wasn't a regulated or realistic way to ensure that all older buildings using plaster walls were asbestos-free. Asbestos was commonly added to plaster until the late 1980s, as it was seen as an inexpensive way to add to the plaster's insulation and fire-retardant properties.
If the pin pokes into the wall easily, that's drywall. If it doesn't, then that's plaster. A pushpin can penetrate drywalls easily because they're softer compared to plaster. Meanwhile, lath and plaster walls won't even budge with a thumbtack unless you use a hammer.
Reproductive problems, high blood pressure, nerve disorders and concentration problems have all been linked to lead poisoning. Most American homes containing traditional plaster were built before World War II, meaning they are candidates for lead-based paint.
Lath and plaster walls are often load bearing. But an easy check is the direction of the joists in the roof or floor above. If they cross the wall, it will at least help to support them. But in any case, best to get a structural engineer in to advise.
While they may sound concerning, most plaster cracks are extremely common and normal.
“Lath and plaster asbestos” is an older method in which plaster was applied directly to a wood or metal frame, called a “lath.” Many homeowners with homes built before the mid-1980s wonder if lath and plaster is dangerous, but they should know that both methods could have used asbestos in plaster.
Natural Settlement – As a building ages, it's natural for it to settle a little bit into the ground. This slight settlement can cause cracks not only in the ceiling but also in the walls and floors. Moisture Damage – Ceiling cracks can also occur due to moisture damage. Leaky roofs or plumbing issues can cause this.
You can, it's only plaster and water, but really do you want to? It will be cold and wet all night long as the walls will take some time to dry out.
Homes built before the 1980s likely have asbestos in them. For instance, if these homes have popcorn ceilings or vinyl flooring, they may contain asbestos. A simple rule is the newer a home is, the less likely it has asbestos materials. Homes built before the 1980s are likely to contain the mineral somewhere.
The purpose of the horsehair itself was to act as a bridging agent, controlling the 'shrinkage' of the plaster and helping to hold the plaster 'nibs' together, the 'nibs' being crucial to the performance and longevity of the plaster.