Long edges of the panels are tapered. With PURPLE® paper on the face side and heavy, mold- and moisture-resistant, 100% recycled gray paper on the back side, you can count on XP Gypsum Board to help protect your projects from mold.
As you are probably aware, traditional drywall has paper on both sides. That paper is the usual culprit when it comes to taking up water, and the water that is soaked up by the paper is where the mold will begin to grow. With mold-resistant drywall, the paper is not used.
Installing mold-resistant drywall involves almost the same process as standard drywall. Sheets of drywall are measured, scored, snapped, and cut to fit the wall. The installer then screws or nails through the face of the drywall and into the bare studs behind.
The reason you will want to have the correct side of drywall facing properly is that it is easier to tape and finish a wall with the correct side of drywall facing outwards.
The vertical edges of the sheet should attach to studs. Score the front side and cut away the paper backing. Smooth any rough edges and position the piece. Mark the studs and drive in screws to secure the drywall.
Fortunately, most paper drywall tape comes with a seam down the middle that can be used to fold it exactly in half, creating a natural corner in the tape that you'll fit into the corner on the wall. This seam presents a slight bulge towards the outside of the tape and the bulge side should go against the wall.
Hang the Ceiling First
This makes it much easier to manage and attach the panels since you will not have to fumble around with the screws, measuring tape, and so on. Screws for drywall lids should be placed no closer than 16” from the wall. This allows the drywall to have a bit of flexibility to prevent ceiling cracks.
Keeping the joints between sheets of drywall too close is an invitation for troubles along the way. Professional drywall installers allow for ⅛-inch space between sheetrock placement, and this allows for expansion and contraction for the frame of the building, avoiding cracks and damage to the drywall.
The chief innovation in mold-resistant drywall is the substitution of fiberglass mat for the paper facing used in traditional drywall. This way, moisture cannot adhere to the organic paper material, creating an attractive food source for mold.
Green board is water-resistant – it is not waterproof. Green board is highly efficient in bathrooms and kitchens, where moisture is frequently in the air, but it is not the drywall that should be set behind tile in your shower or any other areas where it can come in direct contact with water.
Space prone to moisture such as bathrooms and laundry rooms are also typically most prone to mold – which can be disastrous and costly to the structure of your home. Walls and ceilings in these spaces that are often damp due to humidity or splashing are suitable for mold-resistant drywall.
Nor will it prevent mold in the case of flooding, when water saturates the drywall and the organic wood framing behind it. But in rooms that experience frequent humidity and are often subject to mold and mildew, such as bathrooms or basements, mold-resistant drywall is a good choice.
That material, called a polymer, is sandwiched between two pieces of high-density, mold-resistant drywall and covered by heavy, moisture-, mold- and mildew-resistant, 100 percent recycled purple paper on both sides.
Unlike the green board drywall, blue board works great in bathroom areas or places that get in contact with water. It is perfect for wet areas because it has great mold and water resistance qualities. It was not made for tape, mud or paint but it certainly does a good job at minimizing noise and offering low emissions.
Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods. Wear work gloves, safety goggles and a dust mask when hanging drywall.
For walls nine feet high or shorter, hanging the drywall horizontally has a number of benefits. Fewer seams – Horizontal hanging reduces the lineal footage of seams by about 25%. Keeping the footage of seams to a minimum will result in less taping and a better looking finished job.
One key difference between the two is that sheetrock is a brand name of drywall made by the United States Gypsum Corporation. Another difference lies in their production process; sheetrock has a slightly denser core than drywall due to the addition of a small amount of wood fiber to the gypsum core.
If you think tightening your drywall joints are a good thing, it's actually not. Tightened drywall joints risk breaking the drywall in unexpected ways since it will prevent the expansion and contraction of the framing members. This, in turn, can crack the drywall joints that are too tight.
If you use the double-drywall technique and put a further layer of sound-dampening material or compound between them, you'll have a quieter area. The added layer of drywall and compound reduces vibrations and (consequently) cuts down on the sound that travels through the walls.
More seams and taller drywall sheets are more susceptible to the pressure of gravity, so vertical drywall installations have a higher potential to form cracks, especially if the home settles or the structure moves.
Fortunately, fast-drying setting-type compounds allow you to do just that. Setting-type joint compounds harden chemically in anywhere from 20 minutes or 30 minutes to 4 hours or 5 hours, depending on the type used. The compounds with the shortest setting times are ideal for one-day finishing.