We dive in and find out. Liquid chlorine is preferred over chlorine tablets by pool professionals however home swimming pools will benefit too. Liquid chlorine quickly raises or maintains chlorine levels without raising stabilizer. Chlorine tablets maintain chlorine levels and add stabilizer to the pool water.
Chlorinating tablets and chlorinating liquid are both suitable sanitizers for your swimming pool when applied according to label directions. Choose the sanitizer that best suits your individual preferences. *1 gallon of chlorinating liquid delivers the same amount of chlorine as 2 chlorinating tablets.
Liquid chlorine may be a good choice if you have a large pool, but the costs associated with it, and the available chlorine per pound could mean that chlorine granules are the better option. In the end, both liquid chlorine and chlorine granules will do their job and keep your pool clean and clear.
Unlike liquid chlorine solutions that are nothing more than chlorine mixed into water, chlorine tablets are typically composed of chlorine and a stabilizing component which is usually cyanuric acid or CYA.
Dichlor is perhaps the most “best of all worlds” chlorine sanitizer. It is typically found in concentrations of 60-65%, which is comparable to cal-hypo. It is a powder sanitizer, which makes it easier to spread or broadcast around the pool than chlorine tablets.
There are 5 types of Chlorine; Sodium hypochlorite, Lithium hypochlorite, Calcium hypochlorite, Dichlor, and Trichlor. The first difference is Sodium, Lithium, and Calcium are un-stabilized Chlorine.
Liquid chlorine and granular shock have the same active chemical that sanitizes your pool, what changes is the strength and the way you use it. Liquid chlorine is less costly, unstabilized and comes in liquid form. Granular shock is stabilized and comes in a solid form that dissolves in your pool.
Liquid Chlorine, applied twice weekly either directly to the pool or through an easy-to-install liquid feed system, has the same convenience as tablets but is more pure and environmentally benign. It also helps to maintain the pool's water, tile, and plaster quality over time.
All pool chemicals, aside from unstabilised liquid chlorine, are good for up to three to five years as long as they're stored in a cool and dark place away from sunlight and they're packed in air-tight containers.
Liquid Chlorine
The liquid form of chlorine is the cheapest way of adding chlorine to a pool. Simply pour it directly into the water in front of a return jet to disperse it throughout the pool.
To dose water in a tank with 5 mg/L chlorine use: 40 millilitres of liquid pool chlorine or 170 millilitres of bleach, for every 1000 litres in the tank. Always test the residual chlorine level with a chlorine test strip.
Closing thoughts on chlorine tablets
To recap, you typically only need around 2-4 per week, and using them is as simple as adding them to your skimmer. From there, your pool pump does the rest of the work for you. Of course, always remember to buy the right tablets for your pool size and set up.
Shock is liquid or granular chlorine. You should add one gallon (or one pound) of shock per 10,000 gallons of pool water every week to two weeks. During hot weather or frequent use, you may need to shock more frequently.
Sodium hypochlorite (also known as liquid chlorine) is another frequently used option for shocking pool water. This is a common choice in pool shock because you can pour the solution directly into the pool without having to dissolve the chlorine in water beforehand.
Liquid chlorine — In general, it's a good idea to wait at least four hours after putting liquid chlorine in the pool. The size of your pool and the amount of chlorine added does play a factor in this, too. Once your levels reach 5 ppm or lower, you're ready to swim.
Other chemicals
Bromine — considered a safe substitute for chlorine. Looks for BCDMH tablets, which are typically 66% bromine and 27% chlorine. If unable to find, you can use just bromine but it may leave the water a dull green color. PHMB — Chemical compound named polyhexamthylene biguanide.
Shock has a more intense chemical strength than the traditional chlorine sanitizers, and it also differs in how you should apply it to your swimming pool. Short answer: No. Chlorine sanitizers and shock are similar but different in strength.
Liquid chlorine leaves no residue and can be up to 80% less expensive. Also, it's the most commonly used pool sanitation method. It's available in refillable containers, and it doesn't need dissolving as it's a liquid. On the other hand, powder shock is easier to carry and lasts longer.
It Should Not Be Done Together
This is because when you mix chlorine and algaecide together, it renders both of them useless. Hence, you should first shock the pool and wait for the chlorine levels to fall below 5 PPM.
Liquid chlorine is a much better choice than tablets for shocking. It is going to go to work right away and get your chlorine levels high in a short time. Saying that, it is an expensive way to do it. Calcium Hypochlorite (cal-hypo) is a much more cost effective way.
Chlorine in tablet form, especially, is hard to find and expensive. There are several reasons for this: Pandemic problems. Supply chain interruptions and staff shortages mean less product on the market.
The reason why trichlor tablets are so expensive and why they are sold out at many pool supply stores is because of the national trichlor supply shortage.
Shocking your pool isn't necessary, although, it's not a bad idea either. If you get an extremely heavy rain fall, you could shock your pool for good measure. This will help fight off any contaminants that the rain may have brought to your pool.
For the greatest protection against algae, bacteria, and cloudy water, Intex pools should maintain a chlorine level of 2.0-4.0 ppm at all times. If you opted for the Intex Salt Chlorinator, you can make your own chlorine by adding the correct amount of Pool Salt to the water.
How Often Should I Shock My Pool? Shocking your pool regularly will help to keep the water clean and free of contaminants. You should aim to shock your pool about once a week, with the additional shock after heavy use. Some tell-tale signs that your pool needs to be shocked are cloudy, foamy, green, or odourous water.