The best attic insulation depends on your budget and whether your attic is vented or unvented. For standard vented attics, blown-in cellulose is generally the best choice for its superior air-sealing and high density. For unvented (conditioned) attics, spray foam is the top performer.
For top-tier energy efficiency and airtightness, closed-cell spray foam is the most efficient attic insulation, providing an impressive R-values of around 𝑅-6.5 to 𝑅-7 per inch. However, for a balance of high thermal performance and affordability, blown-in cellulose is often recommended for its superior air-blocking capabilities and sustainable, non-toxic profile.
The 7 and 7 rule for attic conversions refers to the common requirement that finished attics be at least 7 feet wide and 70 square feet, with 7-foot ceilings over at least half. Keep in mind that this is a general guideline. Local building codes may have stricter requirements that supersede this rule.
Excess insulation in the attic can make a house too tightly sealed and block vents. If airflow is blocked, moisture can't escape. If moisture accumulates in the attic and comes into contact with warm air, that can allow mold to grow, which can result in serious respiratory problems in people.
Insulating a 2,000 sq. ft. attic costs between $2,000 and $9,000, with most homeowners paying around $3,600 to $5,800 for professional installation. The wide price range depends on the type of insulation, labor rates, and whether old insulation requires removal.
Fall is an ideal time for insulation.
Adding insulation before winter can help reduce heating bills significantly. Spring is another excellent option for installation. It provides an opportunity to prepare your home for summer's heat. Insulating in spring can keep your home cooler and reduce air conditioning costs.
For most attics, blown insulation is better than rolled insulation. Blown-in is ideal for older homes or attics with irregular framing, as the machine-blown material conforms tightly around pipes, wires, and joists. Rolled insulation is better for brand-new, empty attics with no obstructions.
Mice are curious and always searching for safe, snug, and warm nesting sites. Attics filled with blown-in insulation provide an excellent option–from the mice's point of view. As long as there is a ready food source. Mice are omnivorous and will eat and chew on almost anything including wood and electrical wires.
You do not always need to remove old insulation. If it is dry, undamaged, and free of pests, it is often perfectly fine (and more budget-friendly) to simply add a new layer on top to boost your home’s energy efficiency.
Because spray foam can trap moisture, hide the condition of the roof, make it difficult for surveyors to inspect, which means risks like timber decay, dry rot, and not forgetting increased fire risk. If you've got it or you're buying a property that does, this is something you need to know upfront.
You will MOST LIKELY need a building permit if your attic remodel involves: Creating a “habitable space”: Converting an unfinished attic into a bedroom, office, playroom, or any other living area almost always requires a permit.
In most cases, mice are nocturnal, which means they usually remain in their nest during the day. A mouse can venture out at night to search for food. If a mouse has been disturbed and feels uncertain or threatened, it may move out of the attic during the day.
While both types provide insulation, R30 is the better option for maximizing energy savings in areas where heat loss or gain is a major concern. For example, R19 may suffice for interior walls, but R30 is more appropriate for exterior-facing attics or floors.
Again, the off-gassing here can be a big problem. There are other types of insulation, but these are the most common. The best non-toxic insulation is either mineral wool or foam insulation inserts.
Closed cell spray foam is rigid once set. It is a better thermal insulator and was previously sold to stabilise failing roofs. But if it has been used inappropriately or installed poorly, it might put stress on timbers, restrict air circulation and put them at risk of decaying.
Batt insulation (pre-cut fiberglass or mineral wool blankets) and blown-in insulation (loose-fill fiberglass or cellulose) both effectively resist heat flow. For attics with many obstructions, blown-in is superior as it easily fills irregular gaps. For unfinished walls or DIY room additions, batts are often preferred because they are easier to handle without specialized equipment.
Cost and Considerations
Attic insulation installation ranges from $1.50 sq/ft. to $2.45 sq/ft. The average cost of attic insulation installation is $1.80 sq/ft.
Foam insulation is a common target because it's easy for them to chew through. The material offers little resistance, allowing mice to create tunnels or nests within the insulation. But mice aren't just interested in chewing for the sake of it—they're also drawn to the warmth and shelter insulation provides.
When balancing upfront cost and overall thermal efficiency, the cheapest and most effective standard insulation is fiberglass batt insulation. However, if you are looking for long-term savings through superior air sealing, dense-pack cellulose often provides the best overall value.
We use a product called DSV for this important step. DSV is a Disinfectant, Sanitizer, and Virucide. When sprayed or fogged in your attic, it kills the odors left behind from the urine, feces, and afterbirth of rats, mice, squirrels, and bats.
Should I do the project myself or hire a contractor? If your attic is accessible and not too difficult to move around in, and you enjoy tackling bigger home improvement projects, attic insulating may be a good DIY project. Otherwise, consider finding a contractor to complete the project for you.
Yes, homeowners can add new insulation over existing insulation in most cases. This approach works well for attics, walls, and floors where the current layer remains intact and undisturbed. Building codes and energy experts often support this method to boost thermal performance without full removal.
The Amish control mice through non-chemical, self-sustaining methods, relying on active trapping, natural scent repellents, and structural exclusion. Rather than using commercial poisons, they focus on physical barriers and natural predators to keep rodent populations in check.
Closed-cell spray foam and rigid foam board are hard, unattractive to rodents, and double as air barriers. Mineral wool is dense enough to discourage nesting. Fiberglass batts, especially in crawl spaces and attics, are essentially an open invitation.
The ultimate "number one" mice killer depends on your specific needs—whether you prefer fast-acting poison or a safe, pet-friendly option.