Wet swales should not be used in high density residential areas because of potential for mosquito generation and smells.
When should you not use a contour swale? Contour swales are not the tool you want to choose when the issue you are facing is too much water and oversaturation on your site. They are also best used on slopes that are 3:1 or less because that keeps your berm from getting too steep, causing further erosion.
Negative environmental impacts of vegetated swales may include: Leaching from swale vegetation may increase the presence of trace metals and nutrients in the runoff. Infiltration through the swale may carry pollutants into local groundwater.
It's a more natural way to help drain yards to prevent flooding, puddling, and erosion. They can also be a great addition to your landscape by looking like a dry stream bed. You can see what swales can look like further down!
Swales and drains should be designed to convey the required run-off volume effectively, and be well vegetated to allow for seasonal slashing. Ideally they will be located on slopes with 1-4% grade. The interaction between water flow and vegetation within these systems facilitates settlement and retention of pollutants.
Place rocks, gravel, mulch, and/or plants within the swale. Test the effectiveness of the swale by running water through your system.
The most frequently cited maintenance concern for wet swales is that they provide a breeding ground for mosquitoes.
The primary function is to convey stormwater runoff and there is minimal water quality benefit; however, rock lined and vegetated swales may decrease the velocity of water and facilitate some infiltration. Vegetated swales may have the added benefit of filtering stormwater as it flows through the swale.
Reseed bare areas to avoid erosion. Be sure to water during the initial establishment period. Inspect and maintain or repair components. After rainfall, check the swale to ensure the water does not pond longer than 2 or 3 days after a rain storm.
This simple system uses natural landscaping to prevent flooding rather than industrial materials. Affordable: The average cost to build a swale drainage ranges from $0.50 to $1 per square foot or $5 to $15 per linear square foot, making this drain type one of the most affordable to install.
If properly maintained, swales can operate effectively for 20-50 years, depending on the design type. Vegetated dry swales may perform properly for up to 50 years (Malvern Borough, 2013).
Problem: Over time, swales can experience erosion, leading to sediment buildup within the swale itself or downstream. Solution: Regularly inspect and maintain your swales by filling eroded areas, stabilizing slopes with vegetation, and removing accumulated sediment to ensure proper drainage.
For a relatively flat yard, a swale will generally drop 1 inch for every 10 feet of length. If your yard is flat for 60 feet, and then drops several feet to the street, a swale starting in the back yard would begin at a depth of two inches and be 8 inches deep at the point where it reached the drop to the street.
Swales can slightly reduce impervious area and reduce the pollutant accumulation and delivery associated with curbs and gutters. Disadvantages of this technique include the possibility of erosion and channelization over time and the need for more right-of-way as compared to a storm drain system.
Avoid planting trees and shrubs or adding rocks and decorations in swales to keep water flowing smoothly and maintain proper drainage. Why It's Not Safe: 🌳 Obstruction: Plants and rocks can block water flow, causing flooding and improper drainage. 🌳 Roots: Tree and shrub roots can damage drainage infrastructure.
The uphill side of the house must have a drainage waterway (swale) to direct the water around the house. This drainage swale should be at least ten feet from the house and sloped to convey accumulated water away from the dwelling efficiently, and into a proper outlet.
Landscaping Drainage Swales: Turfstone Pavers and Walkways
You can fill the spaces with gravel or plant grass or other ground cover. You'll combat erosion and water as well as filtering water as it soaks down into the ground.
This will change the taste of your drinking water, as will any likely bacterial growth or changes in the mineral content over time. Bacteria will grow more in warm water, especially if any chlorine has evaporated. Therefore it's best to discard any warm water that's been left open for more than 12 hours.
Every 5-10 years (as needed) • If swale loses infiltration capacity, replace the bio-engineered planting soil and vegetation. Poor grass health Your grass may be the wrong type for your shade and moisture conditions or it may be smothered by weeds. Remove dead or diseased grass and plant new vegeta- tion as needed.
A swale is a gentle trench that slopes down and away from a home's foundation. With the trench in place, fill the swale with river rock and then line the edges with pea gravel to create an efficient and attractive water diverter.
Swales are dug out and layered with hügelkultur that can be planted on top while water percolates back into substrate below. Berms are mounded to direct and keep water in the swale.
A lined swale is used to convey concentrated runoff to a stable outlet in situations where a grass swale is inadequate. A lined swale can be lined with concrete, manufactured concrete products, or manufactured erosion-control products. Concrete-lined swales are the only type of lining covered in this practice.
Swales are effective at removing polluting suspended solids through filtration and sedimentation. The vegetation traps organic and mineral particles that are then incorporated into the soil, while the vegetation takes up any nutrients.