Components of a Kitchen Ice Maker There is a timer that will activate the water valve, which then sends water straight into the ice mold (this is how you get your different shapes of ice). Then, a thermostat that is built into the unit will reach freezing temperatures and determine that it has frozen.
Some refrigerators use an infrared beam to sense the level of ice in the ice bucket. When the ice level reaches the top of the bucket, it interrupts the infrared beam. The control board then shuts off the ice maker. When the ice level drops below the beam, the control board signals the ice maker to make more ice.
Either an optical sensor detects when ice has piled too high, or a mechanical arm is pushed upwards when the ice piles high enough. If your ice maker won't stop making ice, this system isn't working.
To begin the ice-making process, a timer triggers the water valve, which fills the ice mold with water.
As the ice melts or is scooped out, the ice level drops away from the thermostatic bulb. When the bin control sensor measures the rise in temperature, it signals to the ice maker to start the freeze and harvest cycles again.
When the ice reaches a certain thickness (depending on your ice type), the sensor detects a drop in freezer temperature and signals the ice maker to begin the dump cycle.
The ice maker won't cycle and produce ice if temperature isn't low enough in the freezer. If the thermostat is set to keep the freezer at too low of a temperature, then the water supply line going to the ice maker can freeze and the ice maker mold won't fill with water.
When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin.
The most common causes are: The water fill tubes are blocked. The water inlet valve is blocked or frozen. The water filter is dirty or clogged.
More expensive refrigerators will use infrared or other sensors that don't need a wire, but the principle is the same: they detect the level of the ice and disable the ice maker when it reaches a certain level.
Your freezer temperature could be too high, the water inlet valve may not be functioning correctly, your home water pressure may be low, the refrigerator's water filter may be clogged, or the ice maker may need to be replaced.
If your ice maker isn't producing ice at all or is producing crescents or cubes that are smaller than usual, it's typically indicative of a clog somewhere along the supply line. Cause: A common cause for a clog is frozen water in the line. Fix: To repair a frozen line, slide the refrigerator and unplug it.
There are two methods for this: either an optical sensor or a mechanical arm, which detects when ice has piled high enough. If your ice maker won't stop making ice, it means ice is not piling high enough to reach the sensor or arm, typically because the ice bucket is not in the proper position.
The control board sends voltage to the ice maker motor to rotate the motor. It also sends voltage to the water valve to fill the ice maker. Of course the ice maker water valve is separate of the water valve that delivers water to the dispenser in the door.
A good rule of thumb is to clean out your ice maker every four to six months “or when you feel that the ice smells funny,” says Carter. This is the best way to keep bacteria out of your ice trays and ensure your ice is fresh.
Once the ice maker has been connected to a power and water source (aka the plumbing line connected to the back of your refrigerator), the ice maker cycle should begin automatically. At the beginning of the cycle, an electrical signal is sent to a water valve to fill the ice mold with water.
If you don't hear a chime, but you can see movement from the ice maker, then the ice maker was reset. If you don't hear a chime and there is no movement from the ice maker, unplug the fridge or turn it off at the circuit breaker for 2 minutes. Then, power it back up and try again.
If the icemaker mold is empty, you can manually pour about 4 ounces of water in the icemaker mold. Wait about 2 hours. If the icemaker has dropped ice cubes out from the mold, you know the icemaker itself is working.
Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve. If the test you conduct with your icemaker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.
If you work with really pure water and cool it slowly to produce supercooled water as a liquid, there's different outcome. When an impurity (e.g. an ice crystal) is added to this supercooled pure water, it speeds up the crystallization process even more. The water instantly freezes solid with no slush in it anywhere.
If your ice maker is not dropping ice, it could be that there's a blockage in the ice tray, or an ice cube is jammed between the bin and the lever. If this happens, here are some things you can do: Double-check that the lever is pushed down and/or the ice maker is switched on.
Some models have a button you will need to push to remove the ice tray and cover. Others will just require you to pull it off. Once the ice tray and covering have been removed, locate and press the ice maker reset button for about 3 seconds. After 3 seconds you should hear a chime.
Ice Maker Thermostat
Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold, about 10 degrees. Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe labeled "H." The meter should indicate zero resistance.