Use a high quality, heavily pigmented, oil-based stain (recommended). Gel stains can also be used. Before starting, and occasionally throughout the project, stir the stain until the texture is creamy.
So, to start with the main think you need to know is that you have to use a gel based stain on fiberglass, not regular wood stain. This gel stain is amazing and won't chip or scratch like a wood door wood. After you gather your materials, you'll want to make sure your door is crystal clean.
Fiberglass front doors exposed to strong sunlight should be finished with paint, not stain. Textured front fiberglass doors look better when stained, however, either finish can be used. If your preference is a look of wood rather than fiberglass, staining can be used to accomplish this.
Remember, fiberglass doesn't absorb stain like wood, so you need to leave a coat, like paint, on the door. Work on the same area you just stained, using a clean, soft paintbrush to gently feather out any streaks or lap marks.
How do I stain my fiberglass entry door? If a stained wood appearance is desired on wood-grain fiberglass door panels, sidelights and glass frames, apply gel stain and clear finish according to the stain manufacturer's directions. For best results, always apply stain in the direction of the grain.
What's the best way to apply Minwax® Gel Stain to a fiberglass door? Fiberglass is non-porous and won't absorb the stain the way a wood surface does. So, it's best to apply Gel Stain with a bristle brush. Excess stain should be evened out with the brush - not wiped away with a rag.
You do not ALWAYS have to strip off old stains when staining a previously stained deck if you are applying the same stain type, color, and brand as the old one. Since deck stains penetrate deep into the wood, they prevent moisture buildup and protect your deck from mold UV rays and rot.
Once you've removed the layers, sand the door a bit with 120-grit paper. Clean the entire surface with a rag soaked in denatured alcohol. Apply a gel stain. Once it dries and you're happy with the color, apply at least two layers of fiberglass topcoat, waiting for it to dry between applications.
Use acrylic, polyester, polyurethane, or epoxy resin paint on your fiberglass door. Try to pick a paint that matches the type of fiberglass for the best results. Do not use oil-based paints because these can damage the door. Fiberglass-friendly paints are often available in matte, neutral, and gloss finishes.
Answer: Yes, you can, but the process is complicated and will vary depending on the brand and quality of the door. Some fiberglass doors cannot be re-stained because their wood-grain finish will be damaged by the stripping or sanding that you have to do first.
Kohltech recommends you use a high quality, UV stabilized, clear exterior polyurethane coating (satin or low gloss) used for exterior fiberglass applications. It is important that you apply sealant once a year to ensure maximum protection.
The first option would be using a penetrating finish, such as Watco exterior stains. (Exterior, semitransparent, penetrating, oil-based house stains that contain mildewcide and are water repellent would also work well.)
Gel stains are thick stain that you apply to a wood surface. Unlike traditional stains that soak into the wood creating a new color, gel stains are applied to the surface of wood and can be built up similar to a paint. Unlike paint, gel stains still allow you to feel the underlying texture of the wood.
Old Masters Gel Stain is a highly pigmented, oil-based stain designed to achieve intense colors on interior and exterior wood, fiberglass, primed metal, and composition surfaces.
If there is excessive fading, you may need to completely refinish your door. To remove the old, faded finish, apply a thin layer of water-based stripper and wait for at least an hour. Apply subsequent layers, repeating this processes until the finish begins to loosen and then scrape it off with a putty knife.
Minwax® PolyShades® is an easy way to change the color of your currently stained or polyurethane finished wood. There's no stripping or heavy sanding necessary to remove the old finish!
Yes! In fact, applying stain over stain is a fairly simple process. It works especially well if you're applying a darker stain over a lighter stain, and while working with raw wood. You can even mix 2 or more stains together and make your own custom stain!
To avoid stripping or sanding the old stain off your deck, thoroughly clean and rinse it, and then let the wood dry for 24 to 48 hours. Apply the same (or darker) stain color or tint from the same manufacturer. Otherwise, you'll need to strip or sand the old stain out.
Why DIYers Choose Gel Stain
The primary difference between gel and a traditional stain is that gel stain sits on top of the wood while a traditional stain sinks in; as a result, it lets some of the wood's unique markings and texture shine through while delivering a crisp, consistent finish not dissimilar to paint.
Minwax® Gel Stain
An oil-based, non-drip formula that's ideal for vertical application and can be applied to both wood and non-wood surfaces.
The Minwax Polycrylic was shinier than the other products, while the General Finishes Polyacrylic was the flattest. Minwax's finish was also the least viscous and required more coats to achieve the same build as the other finishes.
If you have a drab fiberglass door in your living room, give it a quick, inexpensive facelift. Clean the door to remove grease and dirt. Apply a base coat using either paint or stain. Then use a quality gel stain and a wood-graining tool to create faux wood grain in the door.