For larger appliances that draw up to 15 amps like a refrigerator or a portable heater, a 14-gauge cord would be safer. Tools or appliances that require up to 20 amps like a shop vacuum or a circular saw should go with a 12-gauge or 10-gauge extension cord.
Any heavy duty heavy gauge extension cord should work just fine as long as it is plugged in tightly and doesn't pull loose. I would recommend a 12 gauge although a 14 gauge may work if the distance is short enough.
A typical fridge would usually be quite low powered, and almost any U-ground cord 16 gauge should work.
Manufacturer instruction for refrigerators and freezers warn against using an extension cord of any kind. If such a connection has an excessive current resistance, the voltage drop will result in a lower voltage to the compressor motors, and if full rpm is not achieved for back EMF, the motors can overheat and fail.
For extension cord temporary use with refrigerators, look for one that is 10-gauge, between 15 to 20 amps. With those specs, you're mainly looking at a short-length cable under 50 feet long. If you need any more than 100 feet, then forget it. We always recommend you contact an electrician for advice.
Select cords rated to handle the amps and wattage of the devices with which they'll be used. A cord's gauge indicates its size: The smaller the number, the larger the wire and the more electrical current the cord can safely handle. For use with larger appliances, thick, round, low-gauge extension cords are best.
However, they can experience sudden spikes, which can cause them to run at around 15 amps. As a result, a refrigerator must run on a circuit that is capable of handling these occasional spikes. The best course of action is to run the refrigerator on a dedicated 20 amp, 120-volt circuit.
Extension cords can overheat and cause fires when used improperly. Overheating is usually caused by overloading or connecting appliances that consume more watts than the cord can handle. Damaged extension cords can also cause fires. Extension cords should only be used temporarily.
So, power strips are great for computers, TVs, lamps, phone chargers and other low-wattage devices. However, they are not designed for large appliances such as refrigerators, dishwashers, clothes dryers and clothes washers.
By using the 25FT NEMA cord, you can protect your generator from sudden power outages. It can also be used as a refrigerator extension cord. To conveniently meet the electrical needs of your device, the extension cord incorporates a 25A locking mechanism with three male outlets and three-prong female inlets.
A 115-volt or 120-volt, individual, properly grounded branch circuit with a 3-prong grounding type receptacle, protected by a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker or time-delay fuse. Should be on a dedicated circuit. This is recommended for best performance and to prevent overloading house wiring circuits.
For 100 feet, the 14 gauge cord works for 11-13 Amps, while the 12 gauge cord is best suited for 14-15 amps. If your cord is 150 feet long, the 14 gauge is best suited for 1-7 Amps, whereas the 12 gauge will support 8-10 Amps. This shows that the extension cord's length also plays a part in the power it helps safely.
Extension cords are generally not designed to handle the high-power demands of refrigerators and can pose fire hazards or cause appliance malfunctions. Whenever possible, connect your refrigerator directly to a properly grounded outlet or consider having an electrician install a new outlet closer to the appliance.
Larger appliances, such as microwaves and refrigerators, may not be plugged into a power strip or extension cord. Such appliances must be plugged directly into a properly installed outlet.
Refrigerator amps are the amount of electrical current it's compressor uses to cool it's compartment. Amperage for most household refrigerators, is anywhere from 3 to 5 if the voltage is 120. A 15 to 20 amp dedicated circuit is required because the in-rush amperage is much higher.
We do not recommend connecting a Refrigerator to a surge protector.
If you are talking about a regular domestic refrigerator, you can plug it into the regular 110 to 120 volts outlet. However, do not plug your refrigerator into a wall socket that has two terminals. Ony use your fridge in a three-pronged socket.
The average home refrigerator uses 350-780 watts. Refrigerator power usage depends on different factors, such as what kind of fridge you own, its size and age, the kitchen's ambient temperature, the type of refrigerator, and where you place it.
For larger appliances that draw up to 15 amps like a refrigerator or a portable heater, a 14-gauge cord would be safer. Tools or appliances that require up to 20 amps like a shop vacuum or a circular saw should go with a 12-gauge or 10-gauge extension cord.
Portable heaters, refrigerators or large electrical draw appliances should never be plugged into the power strip, but rather a dedicated electrical wall outlet.
Current standard Zoneline power cords are 6 feet in length.
TL;DR: Overloaded Circuits: Plugging multiple high-demand appliances into the same circuit can exceed its capacity, causing the breaker to trip. Short Circuits: A neutral wire contacting a ground wire can create a short circuit, leading to immediate breaker trips when the fridge is plugged in.
You should have refrigerators and freezers installed on a 15-20 amp dedicated 120 volt circuit. This will help you avoid an electrical overload due to your current wiring not being capable of handling the additional power.
Can You Run a Refrigerator on a 15 Amp Circuit? Yes, you can typically run a refrigerator on a 15 amp circuit, as most household refrigerators require between 3 to 10 amps to operate. This usage falls well within the capacity of a 15 amp circuit.