As long as the measurement is correct for the pocket opening, the door is the right thickness, and the door hasn't been pre-drilled for a standard door lockset or hinges, you can use any kind of door for a pocket door.
What is this? You can use any type of door for your pocket door. But preferably, the door hasn't been pre-drilled with holes for the door handle and the hinges. Of course, you have to make sure that your regular door fits the opening for your pocket door from the height, width, and thickness.
To hang a pocket door, you need a rough opening that is twice as wide as the door itself. This means taking down the old swinging door, removing the jamb and disassembling the wall framing. You'll also need to remove drywall and relocate any electrical wires that are in the way.
Check That You Have Enough Space
A pocket door requires a “sleeve” inside the wall to retract into. For a traditional 32-inch-wide interior door, you'll need at least 66 inches of linear wall space: 32 inches for the door and the rest for the housing.
A pocket door differs from a standard hinged door that opens by swinging back and forth. Instead, a pocket door slides, via rollers on an overhead track, into a “pocket” in the wall on either side of it. When it's fully open, the pocket door completely disappears.
To order a single pocket door, first determine your door size (door width, door height and door thickness). Next, select a frame kit that accommodates your door size. Keep in mind that if you don't see your exact door size, the frames can be cut down to accommodate a smaller size door.
If you have simple tools, you can install the pocket door frame and hardware with little difficulty. Installing the door into the pocket is also fairly easy to do.
During a new construction, pocket doors will cost between $500 and $1,000. As part of a remodeling project, their cost will be in the $1,000 to $3,500 range. These prices reflect both parts and labor. These doors hide inside a wall cavity instead of swinging out from a hinge.
Double the width of the desired door, or pair of doors, to determine the wall space that's needed to install the pocket door frame. For example, 48 inches is needed to install the frame for a 24-inch pocket door, and 64 inches is need to install the frame for a 32-inch pocket door.
Pocket doors are a great solution for smaller spaces that lack the wall space for a full swing door. This makes them perfect for small bathrooms, closets and connecting those two areas, for example between a master bath and the walk-in closet.
To install a pocket door in an existing wall, you have to remove drywall, and it's easier to uncover the entire wall instead of trying to work in a limited opening. That way, you can remove entire studs instead of cutting them and reroute wires as needed.
If you simply want to replace a pocket door or remove it in order to repair it, you don't have to tear into the drywall! That's great news. All you have to do is lift the door off the sliding track. In order to do that, you have to remove the trim around the door.
Pocket doors are a good option for smaller rooms that may not have space for a full-swing door. They're perfect for closets, connecting two spaces (for example between an en suite and a walk-in closet, and small bedrooms where floor space counts.
While a pocket door slides into a hidden compartment or recess within the adjacent wall, a sliding door, although similar in its mechanism, doesn't. A sliding door glides parallel to the interior wall.
Pocket doors are more expensive to install because they usually require construction to a home's structure. Both doors have a nominal cost of $400 for an average 30-inch solid wood door. However, the installation cost of a new barn door is anywhere from $100 to $300 per existing wall.
Yes, you can lock pocket doors to secure specific places in your house. Pocket doors can have a lock on one or both sides. If you want to secure your property, you can choose a pocket door lock with a key. The locks may either be a round or square lock.
The reasoning is a 2x4 wall really has no room for framing other than a 1x2 or 1x4. These thin framing members just don't have enough rigidity so the opening can be flimsy. This is most noticeable around the pocket opening where the door sits.
Determining what size to make rough openings for single pocket door framing is a simple process. Almost all hardware manufacturers state in their instructions, width of the rough opening is two times that of the door plus one inch and the height is seven feet one inch.
Pocket doors were popular in the late 1800s, especially in Victorian houses. They had a resurgence of popularity in the 1950s. But because pocket doors from the past ran along raised tracks on the floor, the tracks were a tripping hazard, so builders and homeowners avoided pocket doors when possible.
We did our research and listed below what we found out. At the very least, pocket doors do require thicker walls. This means an offset of more than 4 inches (100mm) to accommodate doors that have a usual thickness of 2 inches, with a bigger gap required for thicker door choices.
The pocket door system can be installed against the existing wall. This is done by creating a false stud wall along the side of your existing one with a space for the frame, the Rocket Pocket is only 100mm wide including plasterboard so you will not lose lots of space in the room.
Pocket doors are there when you need privacy and gone when you don't; they slide into the wall when opened they do not take up space that could be used for something else. This is why pocket doors are perfect for bathrooms, en-suites and toilets.
You can really have a pocket door installed anywhere you like but normally, such doors are placed in areas where they will be of benefit. If the space provided for a door swing is not optimal, a pocket door will free up space in the home.